Why won't my macbook air turn on? We figured out why the Mac does not turn on. And what to do to make it work. How is the repair in the service

In one of the previous articles, I wrote about what steps to take. I think it would be fair if a similar article appeared about the MacBook.

After all, what could be worse than the situation, when your macbook won't boot, and you clearly realize that all your information has remained on it, the accumulation of which hundreds of working hours have been spent.

In this article, I will lay out an emergency plan for when your MAC flatly refuses to start. You don't have to do all of the above steps. But you still need to act.

If your MacBook won't boot or freezes while loading, it could be due to:

• problem with hardware (hdd, memory, controller, processor, etc.);
• OS X issue (e.g. upgrading to El Capitan)
• recently installed hardware (disconnect all USB devices)

As in the case of an iPhone that won't turn on, the first thing to do is to make sure that the MacBook's battery hasn't simply died or the charger hasn't failed.

If something is still displayed on the screen, or even the boot process starts (which eventually freezes on a spinning disk or stops altogether), you should try the steps below in order.

• If the MacBook freezes tightly and requires a reboot -
• Need to create a bootable USB flash drive with OS X?-
• MAC hangs on white screen after OS X update
• More details about the different boot modes are written −
• You don’t know what the screen that appears when loading the MAC means -

STEP 1: Boot in safe mode (Safe Boot)

The first thing to try is to boot your MacBook into safe mode, which limits the checks and load functionality that the Mac performs on startup. I do not guarantee that after starting in this mode, your MAC will suddenly immediately start working as before, but it's still worth a try.

Turn off your MacBook and then turn it on while holding down the shift button. Booting into safe mode can take a long time (if your computer boots at all), so be patient.

If you want to know exactly what happens when you boot into safe mode, you can boot your MacBook by holding down shift + Command + V , which in turn will start the Mac in safe mode + verbose mode.

Verbose mode (verbose mode) is an optional boot mode operating system(including OS X, Windows, Linux), which displays detailed information about loaded drivers, software and processes occurring at the time of computer boot.

Please be patient and attentive while booting up your MacBook. If your computer does boot into safe mode, try simply restarting it from the top Apple menu.

If the macbook boots now in the usual way, we will assume that the situation has been fixed and now everything is fine. If the macbook does not boot, proceed to the next step.

STEP 2: Download Disk Utility

There can be a lot of reasons why a MacBook freezes on loading. But let's check now, and then discard or try to fix the cause associated with problems hard drive your MAC. The easiest way to test a hard drive is to run Disk Utility(Disk Utility).

The first step is to turn off your MAC. If a MacBook stuck on a gray (white, blue, pink...) screen with a spinning disk, you need to force it (the computer) to turn off. To do this, press and hold the power button for 5-8 seconds.

To launch Disk Utility, you need to get into OS X recovery mode. To do this, hold down the Command + R combination while turning on the computer.

If everything went well, you will be taken to a screen with the title MAC OS X Utilities(see picture below). On this screen, click on Disk Utility» (Disk Utility).

Then click on the name of the built-in hard drive on the left side of Disk Utility and start the verification process by clicking on Verify Disk on the bottom right side of the screen. Wait for the end of the check.

If any problems are found, you will be prompted to correct them. Confirm your intentions by clicking on Repair Disk. After that, try restarting your MacBook again.

STEP 3: Target Disk Mode

As the saying goes, "it's better to have a bird in your hand than a bird in the sky." How are you doing with backups data? Well, the data that was stored on your MacBook ... And now it does not start ... Sadness!

If losing data on your MacBook doesn't scare you too much, go straight to the next step. But if you are now in a cold sweat trying to remember whether you copied anything of value to other disks or flash drives, then here's another gift from Apple - EXTERNAL DISK MODE.

Target Disc Mode- a special boot mode unique to MAC computers that allows you to access your computer's hard drive without booting OS X.

Using this mode, you can save data when your MacBook does not boot for any reason.

To start the external disk mode and access the contents of the MacBook hard drive, do this:

1. We find another MAC computer. If you personally don't, ask your friends
2. Connect both Macs with a Thunderbolt cable
3. Turn off your MAC. If necessary, hold down the POWER button for more than 5 seconds
4. Hold down the T button immediately after turning on the macbook and hold it until it appears on blue screen Thunderbolt icons.

you just launched External Disk Mode. This mode, roughly speaking, turns your MAC into an external HDD. If everything went smoothly, Finder will show an additional external hard drive on your friend's MAC. Now copy and save everything you need.

When you're done with the drive, you'll need to eject it into the Finder like you would any other device. After that, disconnect the Thunderbolt cable and turn off your MAC computer (by holding the power button for more than 5 seconds).

STEP 4: Reinstall OS X

If none of the previous steps brought “relief”, all that remains is to reinstall the OS X operating system. To do this, you need to boot the computer again in recovery mode, well, remember how in step 2. To do this, turn on the computer while holding Command + R.

Wait for OS X Utilities to load and select from the list Reinstall OS X. Follow the instructions on the screen until you completely reinstall the operating system.

If your MAC did not master the installation of OS X or worked on a fresh OS for a short time, most likely there are some more serious problems with your MAC.

Such problems may occur due to recently installed new hardware (memory, hard drive, etc.). Check new hardware for compatibility with your computer.

If you have not installed anything in your MAC, you need to check the existing modules (hard disk controller, memory modules, etc.). But it is better to entrust such checks to the specialists of the service center.

In this article, we will analyze the 6 main reasons why the MacBook may not turn on. We will tell you about possible ways diagnostics at home, and also try to help you fix the problem.

Let's immediately decide that by "does not turn on" in this article, we mean the state of the computer in which it does not react in any way to pressing the power button, whether it is when charging is connected or not.

This article will most likely be useless if your MacBook after pressing the power button:

• makes a turn on sound
• fan noise heard
• the sleep indicator lights up (if equipped)
• when you press the caps lock key, it lights up

The main reasons why the MacBook does not turn on

1. One of the most common reasons for "not turning on" is a power supply failure. Most often, the MagSafe magnetic tip fails. The main cause of failure is the twisting of the wire and, as a result, damage to the internal contacts of the tip. In this case, you must either replace the charging cable with a MagSafe tip, or buy an original charger. To test this hypothesis, connect a known working power supply to the computer. In the absence of such, take your computer with you to work, and along the way, drop by any store that sells original Apple chargers. Ask to connect the charger to the computer and if everything works, you can immediately purchase it.



By the way, have you tried plugging the power supply into a different outlet? ;-)

2. Peripheral failure can also cause this failure. Turn off one device at a time, and after turning off each device, try turning on the Mac. If at some point it turns on, then the problem was in the last disconnected device.
3. SMC system management controller failure The main symptoms of this controller failure are the following symptoms:
   • no response when pressing the power button
   • The indicator light on the power supply is not working properly. For example, it does not light up when connected to a computer.
   In this case, it is worth trying to reset the SMC settings. This is done in two ways:
   • connect charger to macbook then press and release at the same time the following buttons Shift+Ctrl+Alt+Power button (On MacBooks since 2016, the Touch ID button is the power button). Pay attention to the indicator light on the power supply, in case of a successful reset, it should go out and light up again first green and then orange. You can read more about resetting SMC on the Apple website at the link.
   • If resetting the SMC did not help, you can try disconnecting the battery for 5-10 seconds.
4. Deep or complete discharge of the battery. In terms of its symptoms, deep discharge is very similar to point 3 of this article. This problem is solved by resetting the SMC, or you can also try disconnecting the battery from motherboard.
5. Failure of the ON button. Perhaps the main and only reason why the power button can break is the external factor of liquid getting on the keyboard. The fact is that since 2008 the power button is built into the keyboard and its contacts go through it directly to the motherboard. In this connection, the liquid that gets on the keyboard can "touch" the conductive tracks of the power button and damage them. In order to eliminate this outcome, you must disconnect the keyboard from the motherboard and connect the power supply. If the MacBook turns on, then it's definitely the keyboard. However, the diagnostic method described above is only suitable for models manufactured since 2011 inclusive.
6. If you have tried everything that was written in this article and nothing helped you, then most likely it's rubbish - the motherboard has failed. Unfortunately, at home without skills and special equipment, you cannot do anything. In any case, you will have to contact the service center.

It should be understood that if your MacBook does not turn on due to physical impact, for example, a strong blow or liquid ingress (popularly - flooding), then you can’t do without contacting the service center either.

How I lost my main working tool during the trip.

About a month ago I went to Moscow for a couple of weeks to visit relatives. And this should not have affected all areas of my activity, because they are tied only to high-quality access to the network and my favorite Macbook Pro 13’’ . There could be problems with the Internet, but the laptop has not let me down on any trip yet. I didn't even worry about him, and for good reason.

Already on the second day in the capital, I was left without my main means of production.

My advice - beware of summer beaches and protect Mac from soft drinks.

Can you guess what happened to him? The guys from MacPlus, who were advised by one local colleague, took this laptop for diagnostics, and at the same time shared information about the 5 most “popular” Mac defects. Further, based on our conversation, I will tell you what problems summer (and not only) can bring with it.

1. Malfunction of the cooling system

Overheating is often feared, but what exactly happens to your laptop:

Although the cooling system of any macbook significantly outperforms most competitors PC-solutions, it still needs to be cleaned at least once a year. Otherwise, it gradually becomes clogged with dirt and dust, due to which its performance decreases significantly over time.

The result will not be long in coming - serious overheating and failure of the motherboard elements is inevitable.

Now you can often hear that preventive work - cleaning the cooling system and replacing thermal paste - should be done at a minimum. once a year.

Of course, this indicator is actually individual and depends on where and how long you work on your Mac. If, for example, a laptop has been turned off for 5-7 months (although this is hard to imagine), there will most likely be much less dust in it than in the same one, but actively used.

The fact is that dust gets into the cooling system through its own “fault”. The fan, removing hot air from the case, at the same time sucks in dust from the environment.

Once again, we note that the indicators are individual - they depend on the working conditions, its duration and on the laptop model too. For example, a 15" MacBook Pro will get dusty much faster than the same MacBook Air.

It is worth mentioning separately as thermal paste. Some of its types can freely withstand up to 140 degrees, while others have rather low thresholds at which they cannot cope with the load. At the same time, the entire required amount of heat is not removed to the cooling system, a part remains “on the microcircuits”. This increases the load, the temperature goes beyond safe limits, the resource in this mode is produced much faster.

The dust itself in some cases not only contributes to heating, but can also become a current conductor (of course, this does not happen often, but it is still real).

With thermal paste, too, everything is not so simple: it does not always dry out in a year. It all depends on what you do: constant work in final cut or a game of call of duty significantly speed up the process, and sparing use, on the contrary, will delay the problem.

But deviating from the rule is still not worth it: at least once a year you need to show the Mac to a specialist. If it is clean, they will tell you about it directly. If cleaning is needed, at first the laptop will simply turn off during operation or slow down, but it’s definitely not worth waiting until it refuses to turn on even after cooling.

You can remove the cover and look at the state of the device in a few minutes, but repairing devices that have already failed is much more difficult. And more expensive.

2. Troubles with charging or power

It's not that simple, there are several options.

"Died" battery

There are two equal options here. Either the battery has exhausted its resource and is not suitable for further use, or it was simply for some reason blocked by charge controller. Of course, this will not turn on the MacBook.

There are many publications on this issue. We'll just reiterate the obvious: Mac batteries are very reliable, but they don't last forever, and sooner or later they have to be replaced.

Practice shows that this always happens unexpectedly. Of course, various utilities can now monitor the state of the battery, and the system itself does this. But there is always a chance that the battery will fail for no apparent reason: long-standing and already forgotten contact with moisture, unnoticed overheating or voltage drop, “fault” of poor quality charger.

In some cases, a failed attempt to charge a Mac may be recognized by the battery controller as physical problem. In this case, part of the circuit is specifically disabled - this is a protective mechanism. The battery cells themselves may be perfectly serviceable, but the battery controller considers it "dead" or dangerous for the "macbook".

By and large, in such cases, repair is possible, but it involves transferring the board with the controller from the donor battery to the one being repaired and “coordinating” them with the help of the programmer. This is not possible for all battery models, but in cases where it is real - the repair process is comparable in cost to replacing the entire battery. And the latter, of course, is much more reliable.

There are problems with the power connector

With a particularly hardcore mode of operation of the laptop MagSafe can fail for several reasons - the connector contacts are oxidized, covered with dirt or worn out. As a result, the MacBook battery is discharged to zero and the laptop does not turn on without recharging.

The situation with a faulty MagSafe is not uncommon. It can occur in almost any model, but most often it happens with 2008-2012 Unibody models. Now such Macs are no longer produced, but they are used quite actively. Considering the age of even the “freshest” instance of 2012, during preventive work, it is necessary to clean not only the cooling system, but also the surface of the connectors.

The MagSafe connector is permanently open, and the contact pad dust settles. It somewhat degrades the quality of the electrical connection, and the leads are worn out from frequent connections. Tenths of a millimeter are often enough to lose contact.

With frequent loss of contact, the MagSafe board starts to heat up, the battery may fail (the system perceives this as a frequent connection / disconnection of the charger), and then the motherboard itself.

So you need to use, of course, high-quality PSUs. And keep the Mac itself clean.

"Covered" power supply

Another reason for the inability to charge the MacBook is a non-working power supply, which could fail for a number of different reasons: from the same voltage drops to banal wear and tear.

At the same time, a “working” Mac may well recognize such a block. Charging performance degrades over time. They are quite enough for the system to “see” the PSU and show the status “battery is charging”, but it will no longer be possible to charge a switched off and completely dead laptop with such a unit.

The situation is the same as when charging Macbook Pro 15″ block from Air. The process is going on, but much more slowly, and if the battery is completely dead or “went into protection”, a current of sufficient power is needed.

The block must be chosen carefully. The point is not only in the quality of performance (the original or a factory copy has very good protection against various emergency situations), but also in accordance with the parameters - the power and current of the PSU must meet the requirements of the laptop.

You can use a more powerful charge - it's safe, but a weak one (as mentioned above) is not recommended. In most cases, the Mac will simply charge slowly (for example, if it is turned off and does not consume power itself).

If you are working on a laptop connected to such a low-power unit, then the system thinks that it is charging, although in fact it is discharging, because the battery receives less from the PSU during charging than it consumes, and the indication on the battery icon will not tell about it. The result is the wear and tear of the battery and its failure.

3. Serious voltage drop

Burnt motherboard components

The worst thing that can happen during a power surge is the failure of the motherboard elements. It involves its complete replacement or expensive MacBook repair.

Such cases are always the most difficult. The whole circuit or just one single element “burns out”. And the result is known - Mac shows no signs of life. With devices that have survived a power surge, you need to be especially careful - problems can be ambiguous, they do not appear immediately.

For example, you have a fully functional Mac, but discrete graphics do not work or turn on WiFi, although both the module and the antennas are OK.

The answer is not always on the surface, but recovery is just as real as, for example, when replacing a hard drive or other elementary repairs. Such problems, as a rule, are not reflected in the durability of devices. And if they were eliminated, then Mac will work without problems.

The “watch circuits” suffer most of all - this is the name of the areas that are always under tension, albeit a small one. In the risk zone are also "power" elements operating under high currents.

"Covered" battery

Due to a large voltage drop, the MacBook battery usually goes into a protection state, but it can also “die” completely. This has already been discussed above.

"Died" power supply

The voltage drop very often causes the "death" of the power supply, which fails completely or partially.

It is more reliable to replace such a block, because if it saved Mac- it's worth it.

4. Large and continuous load

Burnt chipset or video chip

macbook can cope with a very large and continuous load, but only with a working cooling system that is regularly cleaned. Otherwise, it will overheat greatly, which will cause its “death”.

More precisely, not only the chips themselves can fail, but also the “strapping” - auxiliary elements that distribute power to the microcircuits.

video chip (aka GPU) is the main element, the "heart" of the video card. In modern Mac this chip is on the motherboard.

The chipset is also part of the motherboard, and in some models, it also includes a graphics processor. Plus, the microcircuit performs many other important functions. But even if all the chips "survived", the problem can still manifest itself.

Overheating can break contact. BGA- the leads of the crystal itself and the landing sites on the chip substrate (a mirror square and a square made of textolite with elements soldered onto it).

Even more often and even in the vast majority of cases, the crystal lattice itself fails. Temperature changes its structure, and the chip must be replaced. In this case, the problem can be temporarily solved by thermal shrinkage of the chip, which makes it possible to partially restore the structure of the crystal lattice or restore the crystal-substrate contact.

But, as a rule, when the graphics fail, the chip needs to be replaced with a new one, and the technique itself serves more for diagnostic purposes.

The chip almost always fails precisely during overloads, especially prolonged ones. There are many options here: you can “burn” the Mac in an exciting gameplay, leave the video to be edited overnight, or render a large project.

A clean cooling system will help here, but it is also not omnipotent. Especially difficult Mac deal with overloads Windows, at least previous versions (maybe also because there are much more demanding games for this operating system than under OS X).

5. The device was filled with liquid

Keyboard failed

The keyboard is the first thing that suffers when hit on macbook liquids. In this case, it may fail completely or partially. If the power button fails, the laptop simply cannot be turned on. Interestingly, this may not happen immediately, but after a long time after the incident.

Therefore, it is cheaper and more reliable to clearly follow the rule: Filled the MacBook - go to the service center, even if everything is fine, especially since diagnostics can be done for free anyway.

The keyboard is one of the most vulnerable places in Mac. Filling it up is the easiest. Often it dries up and works, but even then it is at risk and may someday suddenly fail.

The fact is that the keyboard itself has a flexible transparent substrate, on which the tracks for each key are laid out. They are the ones that oxidize. Technically, the keyboard can be repaired, but considering the labor costs, such work will cost almost as much as replacing it with a new one.

Often the backlight of the keyboard "saves" everything else - a small amount of moisture, penetrating through the keyboard, is delayed by the backlight (it is glued to the keyboard quite tightly and is equipped with a thick film on the reverse side). This is exactly what happened with my Mac.

Short circuit on motherboard

If liquid gets on the motherboard, a short circuit may occur on it immediately or after a while. It's all because of the oxidation of the contacts.

Approximately 40-50% of the devices that are being repaired are flooded or have ever been flooded. Once again, let's pay attention to what has already become a well-known fact: contact with moisture will not pass without a trace for almost any device, no matter Mac this is, iPad or iPhone.

Oxidation almost always happens very quickly, especially if you do not physically disconnect the battery from the motherboard. It is simply necessary to do this, but most owners of modern technology are unlikely to have a screwdriver on hand with such a beloved Pentalobe, which is now used in almost all new Mac.

Just turning off the laptop is not enough, while power is still supplied to the board, and the liquid that has fallen on it acts as an electrolyte. It turns out a homemade battery - the electrolysis reaction starts, its products appear on conductive elements and tracks, and especially small components can be completely destroyed in the process.

Therefore, if you have a suspicion, or you know for sure that water has got inside, MacBook repair should not be postponed. You should at least check the status. Again, it's better to play it safe and apply as soon as possible when the damage is still small, because the further you go, the more difficult it is to bring the Mac back to life.

Sometimes you have to restore the tracks themselves. Of particular difficulty is moisture under the microcircuits. They are not hermetically attached to the board, and the microscopic gap is enough for water to get there.

Cleaning in an ultrasonic bath in technical alcohol solves two problems at once - moisture leaves hard-to-reach places (water is heavier than pure alcohol), and ultrasound allows you to remove oxides from the surface.

It is also worth noting here that water itself is not so dangerous for electronics, but from experience, almost everything that gets into Mac- aggressive media - soda, coffee, sweet tea, alcohol and so on. If the board is disconnected from the battery and the block, electrolysis proceeds much more slowly, but in practice the battery is almost always connected.

And we will repeat again. Even if immediately after the incident everything is in order with your computer (at first glance), the equipment is still worth inspecting, because the problem may appear much later, when you have already forgotten about what happened. And, as practice shows, restoring such laptops is much more difficult (and generally not always possible).

All's well that ends well, that's for sure

As it turned out, without my knowledge Macbook Pro filled with something like "Mojito" summer on the beach almost a year ago. The liquid was hastily wiped off the case, but it got inside. In the end, the keyboard contacts oxidized, and the power button simply did not work. The keyboard was completely replaced and the laptop came to life. It's good that the cocktail did not reach the motherboard.

While I was drinking coffee and talking with MacPlus specialists, they managed to check the laptop for other problems that were not identified. Got off with little blood.

How has your Mac ever let you down?

P.S.: if everything is bad, we offer battery replacement ( 3.71 out of 5 rated: 7 )

Reading time: 7 min

Let's take a look at the reasons why your MacBook won't boot after updating the Mac OS system in this article. There are clearly software errors that could have happened due to the fault of Apple itself, or incorrect actions on your part (settings and the update process).

In some cases, the matter may be complicated by the failure of internal modules due to overheating. In such cases, it is better to contact the service center in your city.

This article applies to all MacBook Pro and Air models from different years. There may be some differences in the architecture or description of the Mac OS version.

Reasons why MacBook won't boot after update

Similarly, the device can behave due to a number of different errors. Let's take a look at them:

Ask your question to a specialist

Do not know how to solve a problem in the operation of your gadget and need expert advice?

• Installing updates to the Mac OS operating system (or the laptop installed it on its own if the auto-update option is activated).
• When you rebooted (powered on) your device, a black screen was displayed instead of the loading bar.
• While looking at this black screen, you heard 3 continuous beep-beep-beep-like sounds that repeated every 5 seconds.

The official Apple website has symptoms and a description of this error. Three consecutive beeps that repeat with a five-second pause indicate that the RAM failed the data integrity check.

It turns out that the problem is related to the RAM of the device. According to user reports, most often given error issue such devices: MacBook Pro a1278, a1260, MacBook Air a1466. Consider ways to solve the problem.

Reset SMC settings

If the MacBook does not turn on and beeps, then this is a signal of a RAM error, which can be solved by resetting the SMC (system management controller). Follow one of the algorithms, depending on the type of device you are using.

MacBook with non-removable battery

MacBook with removable battery

Such devices are rare, but still consider the algorithm of actions:

Mac Pro, Mac mini, iMac

In this situation, it is even easier to reset the parameters of the system management controller:

• We turn on the device. If it does not respond, turn it off by pressing the power button and holding it for 10 seconds.
• We pull out the power cord from the outlet or device.
• We wait 15 seconds.
• Reconnect the power cord.
• We wait another 5 seconds, after which we turn on the Mac in the usual way by pressing the power button.

Rearranging RAM

This method is suitable for those Mac devices where RAM can be replaced, and it is not soldered to system board, as is now done on most models. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

To solve the problem when the MacBook does not boot after updating, you can use the boot in safe mode. In this way, various software errors of the system can be identified. In this mode, the kernel of the system with important functions is loaded.

While booting the device in safe mode file system checked for errors and corrected as far as possible. Therefore, booting your Mac in safe mode and then performing a graceful soft reset may resolve issues.

To boot your Mac into Safe Mode, press and hold the Shift key on your keyboard when you turn on your computer until the boot progress bar appears. In safe mode, macOS boot time takes significantly longer than standard system boot.

Your Mac may not boot due to a hard drive problem. The easiest way to check your hard drive is to use Disk Utility.

First, turn off the device. To launch Disk Utility, you need to go into OS X recovery mode. When you turn on the device, hold down the Command + R keys.

If everything is successful, you will be taken to the MAC OS X Utilities screen, as in the screenshot below. There you need to click on "Disk Utility" (Disk Utility), then click on the name of the built-in hard drive, which is located on the left side of the screen and start the verification process by selecting Verify Disk at the bottom right of the screen. We are waiting for the verification to be completed.

Increase

If problems are found, you will be prompted to correct them. To confirm your intentions, click on "Repair Disk". Then restart your MacBook again.

Apple computers are highly reliable, but their owners sometimes run into trouble. Let's figure out what needs to be done in the case when the MacBook does not turn on. If you did not manage to flood your laptop and did not drop it on the floor, the problem can most likely be solved without going to a service center.

First, you should perform an external check to make sure that the monitor and power adapter are working. The first applies more to owners of Mac Mini and iMac monoblocks. Laptops manufactured prior to 2016 use the MagSafe magnetic port for charging. The power cord is equipped with a light indicator.

At correct connection it should glow orange or green. The L-shaped magnetic latch can work even if the contacts have not had time to connect. In this case, the power cord is externally connected, but power is not supplied due to a slight skew. T-shaped latches of the latest generation do not have such a drawback. Make sure MagSafe is connected properly.

All 12-inch models, and post-2016 MacBook Pros, use a USB-C power supply that doesn't have an LED. MagSafe remained only in Air. The cord of the new adapters has two identical connectors at the ends and is connected to the laptop and the power supply through the port.

Unplug it on both sides and plug it back in. The adapter can automatically interrupt the power supply when there is interference in the mains. To reset the triggered protection, unplug it from the socket for one minute. After turning it back on, the computer should start charging normally.

Reset NVRAM/PRAM

When the adapter is good, power is on and the apple is lit on the cover, but the screen is still black, you will need to reset the NVRAM / PRAM memory.

1. Turn off the computer completely by using the power button. Turn it on and immediately press the combination shown in the screenshot.

1. Hold down all the keys until the laptop starts to start, emitting a boot beep again. After the inclusion went well and we logged in, we need to check for updates. Click in the menu bar on the apple logo located in the left corner. Select the marked item.

1. On the main page, click the indicated button to open the App Store.

The system will automatically check for updates. Install all available and, if necessary, update the OS to latest version High Sierra.

Resetting the SMC

The SMC is responsible for the power functions. These include battery management, lid opening and closing responses, some system sensors, and interaction with peripherals. In any case, if your Mac doesn't seem to be working properly, forcing the controller to restart may fix the problem.

For Aimak monoblocks and all Mini versions, it is enough to disconnect the power cord for 15 seconds. Wait at least another five seconds before switching on again. For portable computers, which include all versions of "Air", "Pro" and 12-inch Retina, perform the following steps.

1. Completely turn off the device using the menu item shown.

1. Disconnect the power cord. We press the three keys indicated in the screenshot in the left corner simultaneously with the power button and hold for ten seconds. Connect the power adapter back and turn on the laptop.

As in the previous case, we check and install available OS updates.

Consequences of the upgrade

Apple has made upgrades almost impossible in models of recent years. In earlier MacBooks, the user could replace the memory strips on their own. The operation is simple in principle, but requires the correct selection of modules. If, after the upgrade, the laptop starts beeping during the power-on process, this indicates problems with the new memory.

Signals in this case are given with a pause of five seconds. Depending on the model, this may be one repeating beep or a series of three consecutive beeps. The only way out of this situation is to reinstall old modules or buy suitable ones.

Finally

If resetting the NVRAM and SMC doesn't help, then your Mac is in serious trouble. The best solution will be an appeal to a certified service for professional diagnostics. Keep in mind that for a year from the date of activation, your MacBook is covered by Apple's limited warranty and some repairs are free.

Video instruction

In the video below, you can see firsthand how the described operations are performed by a professional.