How to disassemble a computer mouse three lilies np141aa. How to fix a computer mouse without professional knowledge and experience? Button Problems and Troubleshooting
REPAIR OF A COMPUTER MOUSE
Those who actively use computers (namely desktop PCs or laptops, not tablets or smartphones) have probably seen from their own experience that computer mice are the least reliable devices in computer technology. I am sure that many PC users at home have accumulated a decent arsenal of these unpretentious devices, which over time have a habit of stopping functioning normally, or completely failing. I myself have accumulated a little less than a dozen of these "creatures" at home. It would seem, what's the trouble? Just think, this inexpensive device failed. After all, the cost of a computer mouse usually ranges from 2 to 7 US dollars (depending on the manufacturer and functionality, these devices, of course, can cost much more). But, firstly, when it comes to a dozen pieces, then this is not such a small amount. And, secondly, the most unpleasant thing is that this "beast" usually fails at the most inopportune moment, when there is nothing to replace it with, and in order to buy a new one, you need to run almost through half the city.
After another UNTIMELY mouse failure, when a spare was not at hand, and all the nearest computer stores were closed, I thought: “what the hell, these mice are not so complicated and are probably easy to repair.” So I decided to try to restore 1-2 pieces. After 45 minutes of not very difficult work, the entire arsenal of my "pets" (computer mice) was restored and functioned properly. Now that I have some time, I decided to write a short article describing the process of repairing computer mice.
Computer mouse device
To begin with, let's take a look at the device of computer mice and their purpose. The computer mouse is one of the main devices for using the GUI of operating systems on desktops and laptops. There are many variants of computer mice.
Functionally, they consist of:
- Movement sensor (optical, mechanical, induction, gyroscopic, etc.).
- Two or more buttons to send various commands to the computer.
- A control element for "scrolling" web pages, text and graphic documents (joysticks, control wheels, touch devices, etc.).
- Means of connecting to a computer (wireless with a transmitter and receiver of information, wired with a connector for connecting to a PC).
Structurally, computer mice consist of a case with drives for buttons, an electronic circuit (can be made in the form of one or more microcircuits), a system of sensors, buttons and wires. Wireless mice have means of transmitting and receiving information. Wired mice, depending on the type of connector used, can be with a USB or PS / 2 interface.
Note: We will consider one of the cheapest and most common options - a wired optical mouse with two buttons, a control wheel and a USB interface.
Common malfunctions of computer mice
The list of common faults includes:
- Loss of cursor control or unstable control.
- Stopping the computer from responding to button presses.
- Lack of response to the rotation of the control wheel, or erratic response (the effect of "slipping" of the rotation of the wheel).
Standard causes of malfunction of computer mice and external manifestation
Usually problems with the operation of computer mice arise for the following reasons:
- The lack of a driver on your PC for a specific computer mouse. Outwardly, it manifests itself in the complete (or partial) lack of cursor control on the computer screen from the connected mouse. When you connect the mouse to the computer, the information "Device not recognized" is displayed.
- Lack of response to pressing one or more buttons due to a broken micro-button or a broken wire.
- Intermittent cursor control or no control at all. This is usually due to a break in one or more of the wires connecting the mouse to the computer connector.
- “Slippage” of the scrolling of web pages, text and graphic documents when the control wheel is rotated. This is usually due to the mechanical wear of the steering wheel axle tip connected to the rotation sensor. With mechanical destruction of the axle tip, there is a complete lack of reaction of the cursor to the rotation of the control wheel.
- Failure of one or more functional nodes of the mouse.
Depending on the specific design and functionality of the computer mouse, there may be other manifestations of malfunctions. But, because in this case, we will consider an ordinary optical mouse of “Chinese nationality”, as the most common in use due to its cheapness, we will not mention them.
Computer mouse repair algorithm
Repair of a computer mouse can conditionally be divided into the following stages:
- Check and install (if necessary) the appropriate driver.
- Disassembly of a computer mouse.
- Direct troubleshooting.
- Assembly of a computer mouse.
- Checking the performance of a computer mouse.
Checking and installing the computer mouse driver
Usually, computer mice are made using Plug and Play technology (plug and play) and do not require additional software. Some (more sophisticated) computer mice may come with installation drivers, but even if you don't have them, you can always download them from the mouse manufacturer's website. In addition, Windows 7 operating systems and higher have a fairly powerful built-in search system for computer device drivers.
You can set the automatic search for drivers (for any device, not just for computer mice) from the device manager. To launch the Device Manager, launch the Control Panel program built into the Windows operating system and open the Device Manager. The path to it is Control Panel\System and Security\System\Device Manager. In addition, the "Device Manager" can be called up using the "Search" function built into Windows. For Windows 7, click the Start button, and in the Search box, type Device Manager (in Windows 10, click the Search Windows button, which is located to the right of the Start button). In the search results, you will have a link to the Device Manager executable file, by clicking on which you will open the Device Manager window (see Fig. 1). In this window, find the item "Mice and other pointing devices" (see 1 Fig. 1), expand it, and double-click the left mouse button on the button "HID - compatible mouse" (see 2 Fig. 1).
After that, you will see the "Properties: HID - compatible mouse" window (see 3 Fig. 1), which you need to open on the "Driver" tab, see 4 Fig. 1. Then you need to click on the "update driver" button, see 5 Fig. 1, after which the window Fig. 2 will open in front of you.
In the new window Fig.2, select the item "Automatic search for updated drivers" (see 1 Fig.2). After that, your PC (if it is connected to the Internet) will go into search mode and find you the latest working driver, or indicate that the existing driver does not require updating.
Disassembly of a computer mouse
Most optical mice with USB interface, see Fig.3, consist of two parts: the top - cover (see 1 Fig.3 and 1 Fig.4), and the bottom - base (see 2 Fig.3 and 2 Fig.4) , which are attached to each other with the help of 1 self-tapping screw (see 3 Fig. 4) and two plastic easily removable locks (see 4 Fig. 4).
Unscrew the self-tapping screw (see 3 Fig. 4) from the socket (see 3 Fig. 3), lift the rear part of the mouse body cover and, slightly pushing the cover back, disengage the plastic locks. Remove the cover. The disassembled mouse is shown in Fig.4. The appearance of the contents of your mouse will certainly be different from that shown in Fig. 4, but do not be confused by this. The principle of repair of most optical computer mice is similar to that described below.
Computer mouse repair
After you have disassembled the mouse, you can proceed directly to troubleshooting.
As for the elimination of wire breaks, they are eliminated by soldering. Usually, breaks occur in the area where they are connected to the board (see 4 Fig. 4), but they can also be in the area where the cable enters the mouse body (see 5 Fig. 4), and even in the area of the USB connector. In the latter case, use the tips presented in the article "", but at the same time I will immediately make a reservation that your mouse recovery time will increase significantly.
The problem with the "slip" of the control wheel (see 6 Fig.4 and 1 Fig.5) occurs due to the wear of the tip of the steering wheel axle (usually, it has a hexagonal shape (see 2 Fig.5)). This "trouble" is easily eliminated if, in parallel with the tip, several strands (see 4 Fig. 5) of a stranded copper wire (see 5 Fig. 5), which have about 0.05 mm in diameter. It is necessary to insert copper wires with the steering wheel removed, and only then install the wheel axle in place. This should be done without much effort so as not to damage the steering wheel rotation sensor and the hexagonal tip of the axle (see 2 Fig. 5). After you seal the connection between the tip of the steering wheel axle and the sensor, cut off the protruding wires with side cutters or ordinary nail scissors.
Sometimes the cause of a malfunction of computer mice may be the failure of a functional unit. In this case, the repair becomes more complicated and consists in replacing faulty components. As a repair kit for such a repair, you can use serviceable nodes from other faulty mice, if you did not save money when buying these products, but took several at once.
You should be aware that all functional devices of computer mice are easily dismantled and put in place, up to microcircuits with round leads. But to dismantle faulty microcircuits, it is advisable to use medical needles with an inner diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the microcircuit output. Insert 1 pin of the microcircuit into the hole of the medical needle and use a soldering iron with a thin tip to heat the needle at the point of contact of the microcircuit with the printed circuit board. After the solder has melted, and the needle passes through the hole in the printed circuit board with little effort, remove the soldering iron and, turning the needle, let the soldering place cool. Do the same with the rest of the contacts of the microcircuit. Remove the faulty chip, and then replace the faulty chip with a good one and solder it.
The last of the proposed repair methods is rather laborious, and it is advisable to do it only in the case of repair of expensive products.
Assembling a computer mouse
The computer mouse is assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. First install on the base of the mouse (see 2 Fig. 4) all its functional elements, laying the cable in such a way that it does not interfere with the installation of the cover (see 1 Fig. 4). Then, easily removable locks are connected with the back of the mouse cover slightly raised and a self-tapping screw is screwed in with the cover pressed against the base of the mouse body.
- In order to be able to replace faulty components when repairing computer mice, it is advisable to buy several mice of the same type at once.
- If the mouse is out of order, or the quality of its work does not satisfy you, do not rush to throw it away. Perhaps the above recommendations will help you restore it.
- Usually, most of the malfunctions that appear during the operation of computer mice made in China are laid down at the stage of their manufacture. Therefore, after repair, these mice serve for quite a long time. In this regard, often the repair of these simple products is technically and economically justified.
Itsenko Alexander Ivanovich
Dear visitors!!!
Our modern life cannot be imagined without a computer; with the help of the Internet, we communicate with our friends and relatives. When we start working on a computer, sometimes we have to fix minor breakdowns, namely:
- clogged laptop or computer fan,
- clogged computer mouse
- with the help of which it becomes impossible to control the screen (laptop, computer). The topic contains personal photographs regarding the malfunction of a computer mouse - which I want to acquaint you with.
Computer mouse repair
To make a computer mouse that stopped working after a certain time, the malfunction here may be hidden in the simplest reason - clogging.
The clogging of this accessory occurs as a result of its use. When working at a computer, we often have to move the computer mouse and gradually it becomes clogged with dust, hair and other small particles. Of course, in order to fix a computer mouse, it must be disassembled.
How to disassemble a computer mouse
We unscrew the bolts (photo 1), carefully follow the sequence of disassembling the computer mouse.
We do not carry out any diagnostics for electronic elements on the circuit (diagnostics is carried out as a last resort). In two photographs (photo 2), an enlarged view shows a wheel with an axis, which transmits a signal of its rotation to the circuit. In the right photograph, small fragments of hair, lint and dust can be seen at the two ends of the wheel axle. With a cotton swab, carefully remove small fragments of pile and dust, if some mote is poorly removed, tweezers are used.
After the procedure for removing dust and small fragments, the computer mouse is assembled in the reverse order.
Contact cleaner
It will not be superfluous to wipe the contacts of the connector connected to the socket of a computer or laptop with the same cotton swab. In addition to the connector, you also need to clean the socket contacts. For stripping contacts (connector and socket), it is advisable to slightly moisten a cotton swab with alcohol. This regulation must be carried out carefully so as not to disturb the electronics of the circuit itself. In the event that you find a cable break in any area (between the connector and the mouse itself), soldering is used. Such a cable may consist of five wires. In my practice, the malfunction of a computer mouse was exactly the reason that I described. After eliminating the malfunction of the computer mouse, he was satisfied with his work, the computer mouse became controllable again.
That's all for now. Follow the rubric.
Computer mouse Probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and issuing various commands to the computer. Over time, various malfunctions appear in this device: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often malfunctions, the mouse wheel (scroll) sometimes scrolls, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.
Let's take a look at do-it-yourself repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!
The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it is quite easy to repair with your own hands. If you know how to handle a soldering iron even a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any mouse breakdown. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical mouse damage with a minimum set of tools:
Crosshead screwdriver
Pliers
Scissors
The main malfunctions of computer mice
Now there are several types of computer mice that differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.
Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time they have a sufficiently high accuracy, which is enough for most users.
| Np.p. |
Description of the problem |
Possible malfunction |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mouse not responding at all | Breakage or chafing of wires; violation of the integrity of the printed circuit board; controller failure |
| 2 | The sensor is junk. Cursor jumps or jerks | Clogging of the optical sensor; LED failure |
| 3 | The scroll wheel does not work or the scroll area moves in jerks when scrolling | Loosening of the scrolling mechanism; drying of the lubricant inside the mechanism; encoder defects (scroll sensor) |
| 4 | A specific button gets stuck or double clicked | loosening; failure of the button mechanism; mouse settings or driver problem |
| 5 | Specific mouse button not working | Failure of the button mechanism |
Disassembly and device of the mouse
We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they are most often hidden under stickers or stand-legs:
Usually the screws hold the mouse only in the back. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed due to special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to slightly lift it by the freed back and slowly pull it towards you. You can put a little more pressure on it from the front, but the main thing is not to be very hard, otherwise you will break it! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them:
When you remove the top cover, you will find a small printed circuit board under it, which is usually fixed only on small plastic pins (although it may be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scrolling mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:
To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to remove the printed circuit board from it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder grooves).
Checking and repairing the wire
Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor twitches or disappears if one of the wires frays or breaks somewhere (unless, of course, the mouse is wired).
A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 different colored wires. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:
Mouse wiring color scheme
Food- red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).
Data reception- white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
Data transfer- green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
Earth- black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).
You can clearly judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often occurs in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse body. You can indirectly check for a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in doubtful places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.
Having found the place where the wiring is broken, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. Photo of the finished twist, how it should look:
After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.
Optical mouse sensor not working
Often there is also a situation where we can not precisely point the cursor at a certain point. It constantly trembles and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light of the diode is reflected from the table.
To get rid of such a blockage, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stubborn debris.
If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or is completely out of order.
In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:
Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it to blow out fine dust that can stick when wet. After that, gently, without pressure, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the sensor hole. Having made a couple of turns and without stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.
If after all cleaning attempts the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight arms, you can unsolder the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.
Scrolling mouse wheel
It happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts jumping up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly common failure, and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axle will slip in a problem area.
If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is fine with the movement of the wheel, then the breakdown occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could become loose and should be slightly compacted:
To do this, take small pliers and, in turn, press them on the four metal brackets that secure the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time tighten it harder. Try connecting a mouse and see if the negative scrolling effect is reduced after each press.
There are several more options:
Disassemble and clean the mechanism
Replace the mechanism with another mouse (with a different malfunction)
Mouse buttons not working
Each button has its own click resource. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. A non-working button is almost never repaired, but it can be replaced from another mouse.
The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it does not work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may signal that the edge of the button pusher, which presses the microswitch, or poor contact inside the contact plate switch, has worn off from frequent use.
We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problematic button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be precisely in it. It is enough to fill the washed place with a drop of epoxy or melted plastic. At the same time, while the switch was disassembled, you can clean the contact group.
The last problem that you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called contact bounce. You can solve this case by soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!
In any case, before taking up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:
By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered, and the sticky mouse buttons option should be disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical programmatic way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.
Mice- one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand electronics.
The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.
Good luck with your repair!
We remind you that you can order in one of the corresponding ones from our catalog .
A computer mouse is a manipulator that allows the user to control the cursor on the screen. This device is quite reliable and with careful use and proper care can last for many years. Very often, due to a mere trifle, the owner himself chooses what to do next: throw away the old manipulator and purchase a new one, or try to find out the cause of the breakdown and repair his assistant. Here the question arises, how to disassemble the mouse in order to get to its internal mechanism.
There are some of the most common types of computer mouse breakdowns that can be repaired. This can be rubbing of the wire when leaving the case, if the mouse is wired, jamming of the button, usually the left one, because it is used more often, or poor operation of the wheel. These are the breakdowns that can be fixed and extend the life of your assistant.
Although the device of the manipulator seems simple in appearance, there are still problems with how to disassemble the mouse. Depending on the model, it is fastened with one or two screws. In some devices, the screw is visible, but most manufacturers hide the fasteners under stickers or pedestals for a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, in order to find the screw, you need to carefully examine the sticker for the presence of deflections in the shape of a circle, if there are, then you need to peel it off, if there are none, then you need to look under the thrust bearings. The latter should be removed carefully, then put back into place, otherwise the mouse will not slide well on the rug.
Having unscrewed all the screws, it is necessary to separate the body of the manipulator into halves and remove the upper part. How to disassemble the mouse further, in most cases, there are no questions, since it is usually not fixed by anything, but in some models it can be screwed with small screws, so you need to be careful. If the board cannot be removed, then all existing fasteners should be unscrewed.
The mouse can also be mounted on latches; to determine them, you need to go through the junction of the halves with a screwdriver and open them. When disassembling the manipulator, it is important to remember exactly how the parts are located, so that you can put them back together correctly later. Do not touch the optical prism, as well as other elements of the optics. If, nevertheless, touching could not be avoided, then dirty traces should be wiped with a napkin with a special liquid for cleaning optical parts.
Many users have a question about how to disassemble a mouse if it is wireless. To get started, you need a computer. Wireless mice for laptops are disassembled in much the same way as wired ones. In the center of the manipulator is a silver button, you need to press it, remove the cover and remove the AA batteries.
Unscrew all fasteners with a jeweler's screwdriver. It is also necessary to get rid of the rubberized base located on the bottom cover. This can be done with a nail file. The mouse should be divided into two parts. On the bottom is the board, scroll wheel and antenna. To pull out the board, you need to unscrew the four bolts. After that, the mouse is completely ready for inspection and repair.
If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.
Missing mouse sensor
Often there is also a situation where we can not precisely point the cursor at a certain point. It constantly trembles and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse.
The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light of the diode is reflected from the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stubborn debris.
If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or is completely out of order. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:
Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it to blow out fine dust that can stick when wet. After that, gently, without pressure, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the sensor hole. Having made a couple of turns and without stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.
If after all cleaning attempts the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight arms, you can unsolder the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse. However, this already requires some skill, so not everyone will be able to do this...
Scrolling mouse wheel
It happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts jumping up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly common failure, and it was she who prompted me to write this article.
First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axle will slip in a problem area.
If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is fine with the movement of the wheel, then the breakdown occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could become loose and should be slightly compacted:
To do this, take small pliers and, in turn, press them on the four metal brackets that secure the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time tighten it harder. Try connecting a mouse and see if the negative scrolling effect is reduced after each press.
Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of compaction radically and truly in Russian :) I cut a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:
What is most interesting, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse :)
Mouse buttons not working
The last, and most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Whether left, right or the one under the wheel is not important - they are usually all the same. The important thing is that the non-working button is almost never repaired. You can only replace its microswitch by soldering a non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or borrowed from another mouse.
The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as a "foolproof" to prevent you from inserting the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.
Sometimes the button still works, but it does not work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may signal that the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch has worn off from frequent use.
We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problematic button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be precisely in it. It is enough to fill the washed place with a drop of epoxy or melted plastic.
The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double clicks when you click on it. You can solve this case by soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically! In any case, before taking up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:
By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered, and the sticky mouse buttons option should be disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical programmatic way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver. How to uninstall the driver is written.
conclusions
Mice are one of the most widely used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!
To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand electronics. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair.
I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Good luck with your repair!
P.S. It is allowed to freely copy and quote this article, provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.
A computer mouse is a manipulator or pointing input device with which PC users can easily control the cursor on the screen. No matter how simple this device may seem at first glance, it is not so easy to disassemble it. Consider several options for parsing the mouse.
You will need
- Screwdriver
Instruction
Instruction
- manipulator disassemble
Today I will tell you how to do minor computer mouse repairs. Many of you may ask: why? Indeed, today it is easier to buy a new mouse than to mess with a faulty one and try to repair something there. And in some way you will be right. But there are objects or things that you get used to or become attached to, and their replacement is not always equivalent.
A computer mouse is exactly the subject that you get used to imperceptibly, and the replacement of an old rodent with a new one is immediately felt.
First of all, this is the feeling of the mouse in the palm of your hand, as well as the convenience and strength of pressing the keys. And if you use an expensive mouse that you can’t just buy in a store. In a word, you can always throw out the mouse, but you need to try to give it another life.
To disassemble the mouse, you need to unscrew the screw, which is located in the rear lower part of the case. In my design, you can see that the screw is located under the silicone “leg”. And there are mouse designs where such screws are covered with paper stickers, and the sticker is usually pierced to get to the screw.
With the tip of a screwdriver or scissors, pry off the edge of the leg and peel it off, pulling it to the side. If you have a sticker, then we pierce.
Now we lift the upper part of the case and slightly pull it towards us so that it comes out of the grooves located in front of the base of the case.
In the following figure, the arrows mark some of the elements that are most subject to wear and tear, due to which the mouse starts to work poorly. Basically, these are microswitches and part of the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body.
2. Faults.
The first common problem is when you move the mouse and the cursor stays in place, moves jerkily, or you have to move the mouse several times to get the cursor to move. Such a malfunction manifests itself when the USB cable frays at the entrance to the mouse body from repeated bending of the wire.
It is removed simply and easily..
Use scissors or a knife to cut off the damaged section of the USB cable, indicated by the dotted line.
To make it convenient to work, we remove the board from the case. To do this, you need to bend the two latches that secure the board from behind.
We remove the upper insulation of the cable, and clean the ends of the cores. Who has a soldering iron, the ends lived.
Now we connect all the veins of both ends of the USB cable to each other. We take two veins of the corresponding color, for example, red, and twist it, and if there is a soldering iron, then we solder it.
I had heat shrink, and to insulate the connection, I first put it on the ends of the wires. If there is no heat shrink, then you can use electrical tape, tape or any other flexible insulating material.
The next step is to isolate the twists or solderings of the cores, and then evenly lay them in one line to get a large twist. As shown on the bottom of the picture.
Now we cover the twists with insulating material. I used heat shrink again to make it look nice. Although this is not important, because all the same, this beauty will hide inside. But still.
If you solder a little, then there is another option where you do not need to twist or solder. Here, the damaged section of the USB cable is simply cut off, stripped, tinned and soldered under the connector from the side of the tracks. When soldering, the sequence of colors of the wires that go into the top of the connector is repeated.
Second common problem- this is when you have to click the left mouse button several times to perform some action. And it also happens like this: you click once, and the click occurs twice. The reason for all this is the microswitch, which presses the left key.
In this case, we already need a soldering iron. Here we do this: solder the microswitch of the left mouse button and the “wheel”, and swap them. Most people use the wheel only for scrolling through pages, and very few people use it as an additional button. Therefore, we put this microswitch in place of the worn-out left one.
The microswitch is easily soldered, although it has three leads.
With the tip of the soldering iron, we simultaneously touch the middle and any of the extreme conclusions, while trying to lift this edge with our finger. You don't need to press hard.
You should end up with something like this:
Now we intercept and solder the opposite side of the microswitch, where we also lift it with a finger, and heat the two terminals with a sting.
If it didn’t work the first time, that is, the microswitch remained on the board, then we repeat the soldering procedure again: first we solder one side, and then the second. When both microswitches are soldered, swap them and solder back.
Very often situations arise when part of the solder remains in the hole into which the leg of the radio component is inserted.
If necessary, this is eliminated as follows: a regular needle or a needle from a disposable syringe is taken and inserted into the hole from the side of the radio components, and from the side of the tracks this hole is heated with a soldering iron. As the solder warms up, the needle will enter the hole and force the solder out.
Now it only remains to assemble the repaired rodent in reverse order and enjoy its work. When you put on the upper part of the case, first insert it into the grooves and slightly push forward so that it goes all the way.
I think now it will be easy for you to do small computer mouse repairs.
Good luck!
Instruction
Prepare the mouse for disassembly. To do this, disconnect it from and put it on the table, turning it upside down. Locate the mounting screw on the bottom of the mouse. The screws are sometimes not immediately visible, as they are often hidden under stickers. In this case, first remove all stickers from the base of the mouse.
Loosen the fixing screws carefully. The screw heads on the mice are usually cross-shaped, so you need the same screwdriver. The screws are located in the recesses, it will be easier to remove them with a magnetic screwdriver. It is important that after unscrewing, put the screws in the prepared container, otherwise they will be lost.
Open the case. To do this, hold the mouse with both the bottom and the surface and pull the cover towards you. Calculate the effort not to break off the latch of the cover approx. It is best to pull the cover up and slightly to the left. Now you can blow out the insides of the mouse from the accumulated and dust.
Remove the scroll wheel from the base of the mouse. There are different designs for fastening scrollers. More often, it is enough to pull up and the wheel will come out with its mount or latch. A lot of hair is often wound around the axis of the scroller. Remove these with a suitable tool.
Remove or microchip of the mouse. The board is fastened with latches or screwed. Gently pry the latches with your fingers. And unscrew the screws and put with the rest of the details. Slightly pulling the board up, separate it from the mouse body. Everything, the mouse is finished.
Useful advice
The assembly of the mouse is carried out in the reverse order. The board, scroller and cover are put in place. If there are latches, make sure they all click into place.
Sources:
- Mash Oklick 404 L Optical Mouse pros, cons, characteristics
Sometimes the computer mouse abruptly loses its working capacity. This is due to the chafing of the cable at the case itself. In such a situation, you have two options: buy a new mouse or try to fix the old one.
Instruction
Disconnect the mouse from the personal computer. Take a small Phillips screwdriver to disassemble the computer mouse. Locate the mounting screws on its bottom surface. Unscrew them with a screwdriver.
Then try to remove the top cover of the case. Pry it with a thin sharp object from the side opposite the cable entrance to the mouse. If the case does not lend itself, then there are hidden screws. As a rule, they are located under the rubber feet of the mouse. Remove the rubber bands from the holes. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the remaining screws.
Look under the stickers. Mounting screws may also be hidden there. Please note that the sticker is only possible if the warranty period has expired. Otherwise, it will not be possible to repair your computer mouse in the service center.
Keep the rubber feet, because without them you will be very uncomfortable to use the mouse. So, to disassemble the mouse, remove the top case. Remove the scroller. Usually it is equipped with a shaft fixed on one side in a detachable hinge. The other end of the shaft must be fixed in the encoder hole.
Lift the shaft over the hinge and remove it from the hole. Remove all screws holding the board. Then release the latches. After that, remove the optical overlay and lens from the board. Leave the multi-pin connector in its original place. Take wire cutters, cut the wire before it enters the case.
Cut off the damaged piece of cable to fix the mouse. Then clean the contacts. Take a soldering iron. Solder the pins to the multi-pin connector inside the mouse body according to the colors of the pins. After that, connect it to your computer. See if the LED is lit and if there is a reaction to the rotation of the scroller.
Then you can return the lens to its original place and check if there is a reaction to movement. If the mouse works properly, reassemble it. If not, check for correct soldering on the multi-pin connector. You may have left a jumper between the pins.
If you have ever organized a meal at a laptop or a cooking process near the laptop (there are some), most likely, after these events, your laptop refused to work. Maybe it works, but something from food has got under the key. In order to pull out a particle of your former food from under the key, you need to disassemble the keyboard or remove only the key.
You will need
- Laptop keyboard, key removal tool (any thin and not sharp).
Instruction
To begin cleaning the keyboard buttons, you must remove the keyboard. Most keyboards are disassembled from the keys. In order not to make a mistake later on, just take a picture of your keyboard or. Each key consists of:
- key pad;
- key lift;
- spring element (not present on all keyboards).
To quickly complete the process of removing the keys, any thin and non-sharp object can be used: a watch screwdriver, a thin awl, a dental hook. The platform is connected to by means of latches. Connections can be either movable or non-movable. With the help of fixed connections, the key is detached from the keyboard body. Typically, this is located at the bottom of the keyboard button. It is necessary to insert the hook between the fixed connections, focusing on the fact that it passes between the elevator and the platform.
So you took one button. If you need to do the same with multiple keys, don't forget their location. Use your photo or photocopy of the keyboard when reassembling the keyboard buttons.
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Personal computers have long been impossible to imagine without a keyboard and mouse, which are the main intermediaries in the "communication" of the user with technology. Unfortunately, mice break down and start acting up quite often. The computer mouse can be disassembled and cleaned.
Instruction
Disconnect from the PC, but only when the system unit is turned off. The body of the mouse can be cleaned with an ordinary damp cloth and a small amount of liquid soap. But don't you dare wash mouse under running water. True, the case itself after disassembling the (namely optical) mouse can be thoroughly rinsed. It's just that mechanical mice also have a microcircuit, which can not always be removed from the case.
Take a small Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the small one located in the recess at the bottom of the manipulator body. Usually the body consists of two parts. There may also be a small latch on the side of the screw. Carefully separate the body without much effort.
If optical, you need to gently wipe the luminous red "eye" in its lower part with a match with a cotton swab or ear. You can also use a can of compressed air. Carefully remove the large microcircuit from the body of the optical mouse and free its plastic parts from dust, dirt and hair (). At the ball mouse, remove the covered with rubber, and wash it with soap or wipe with alcohol. Pay special attention to the mouse wheel and its mounts. There, too, dirt often accumulates.
For mechanical removal of dirt, it is better not to use a knife or razor, but to take a small plastic scraper. Carefully scrape off the dirt with it where possible.
Having dealt with dust and adhering dirt, remove grease from the rotating parts of the manipulator. This can be done with a soft, lint-free cloth soaked in alcohol. Also wipe all the insides of the mouse with alcohol so that the dust does not accumulate for longer.
Now you can collect mouse. Put the chip (wheel) back and slam the case. Be careful not to pinch the wire. Tighten the screw and consider that the mouse is cleaned.
If, while working at a computer, your hand suddenly and sharply starts to hurt, which you hold mouse, the pain intensifies and does not go away for a long time, then you can be “congratulated”. This is a manifestation of tunnel syndrome, another disease of civilization. Severe pain and the inability to continue sitting at the computer may hide swelling of the tendons, damage to the nerve of the wrist. It may even develop a chronic form of joint disease. How well you hold your computer mouse depends on your health.
Instruction
The furniture on which you sit - a chair or an armchair - should be with armrests that will provide the necessary support for your hands and wrists.
Mouse pads are not an anachronism at all, especially if there is a special anatomical bulge for the wrist. Using this mouse is very convenient and correct. So get the right one for sure.
You need to move the mouse with only your fingers, and not with your whole hand, especially with the help of your shoulder. Hold mouse behind the edges with your thumb and little finger, put the index finger on the left button, the middle one on the wheel, the ring finger on the right button.
Related videos
note
If tunnel syndrome no longer just makes itself felt, but really worries, urgently go to the doctor and do not delay treatment.
Useful advice
Learn to use the mouse with both hands. Change of position will help to avoid pain. In addition, it is useful for the development of coordination, posture. Changing the functions of the left and right mouse buttons is easy in the settings on the control panel.
Sometimes it is required not only to assemble cabinet furniture, but also to disassemble it in order to transport it to another place. You can disassemble the table, having the necessary tools and carefully studying its design.
The mouse manipulator occupies a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can cause trouble if there is no store nearby, or a spare tailed one. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of mice and how to fix them. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball, we will only note that among optical mice, laser mice are distinguished into the category of more accurate ones. Optical manipulators also come in the visible spectrum (they emit red light) and the infrared spectrum, the performance of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.
To repair a computer mouse, we need:
- screwdriver
- nippers (side cutters)
- multimeter
- soldering iron and solder
- heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of damage detected
Typical breakdowns of mice and their elimination
The mouse is one of the devices whose reliability is brought to a high level (we are talking about devices manufactured by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. The typical breakdowns of mice include the following:
- broken wire
- button failure
- broken scroll wheel.
Wire break and repair
In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with a kink in the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bent when moving the mouse over the work surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain “kink” of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also typical. Repairing a wire break is simple: after making sure that you have located the break point, we bite off the wire with wire cutters a couple of centimeters above and below the damaged area. Next, solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. At the same time, do not forget to isolate them with a heat shrink tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).
Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse; for this, you can carefully cut the original rubber “cable entry”, remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in some glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. In order to further maintainability, I use hot glue. How it looks after repair, see the photo.
Button Problems and Troubleshooting
Incorrect working out of pressing the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically “by ear and by touch”. The most common causes of button problems are:
Scroll wheel broken
In the case of scroll wheel problems, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:
- Problems caused by the operation of the encoder. Outwardly, they appear in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the valcoder and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the fastening of the valcoder basket to its base. How to tighten the mount you can see in this video clip
- Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdo it and break the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head by creating a semblance of a 6-hedron (trying it on the shaft encoder so that there are no turns) and heating it on fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hexagon key that fits exactly into the shaft encoder hole, cut it along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.
Finally, a few words about the repair of wireless mice.
I haven’t had a chance to repair a lot of them yet, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:
- Food. If the mouse is wireless, then it has its own autonomous power source - a battery or a resonant induction power source (applies to wireless mice that work only on the surface of the usb pad that comes with them). In any case, we look at what is indicated on the bottom sticker of the mouse and compare it with the measured results. Pay attention to the fact that the voltage on the battery without load may be normal, and when the load is connected, it may sink. This may indicate that the battery is discharged and needs to be replaced, or that the device consumes a lot of current (short circuit in the circuit, or failure of some elements). In the case of using saline and low-quality batteries, it is possible that the battery is depressurized and the salt solution gets on the board. In this case, it is necessary to wash the board with a brush and ethyl alcohol. It also does not hurt to measure the current consumed and compare the value obtained with the data on the sticker.
- The work of the emitter. The most obvious is the work of the emitter, but it is not always possible to see it with the naked eye. If you have an infrared optical system, you can see its performance using a digital camera, webcam or camera on your phone.
- The presence of radio interference. In a modern office, every square meter has wi-fi access points, radio mice, keyboards, wireless window-break sensors, wireless fire detectors, and even motion sensors from the store opposite can interfere with the normal operation of the radio mouse. If radio mice of the same manufacturer are working near you, you can try installing software from the site of the manipulator manufacturer and force them to work on different channels (similar to wi-fi access points, if such an option is available in the software of your manipulator)
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