Checking system files for errors. How to check the processor for performance? Processor test program How to know if your computer is working properly

In any computer system, it is almost the most important component, since all operations and calculations are assigned to it. Therefore, its condition must be monitored so that there is no overheating, physical damage or something else. The question naturally arises of how to check the processor for performance. To do this, you can use several common methods.

What threaten violations in the work of the central processor?

First of all, speaking about possible failures of the processor chip, it should be noted that as a result of its damage, the entire computer system will stop working. In the best case, with partial damage, the computer will behave, to put it mildly, inadequately (unreasonable freeze, spontaneous reboot, severe overheating, inability to start programs, etc.).

In the end, the system will simply fail, not to mention the fact that a processor malfunction can lead to malfunctions in the operation of other "iron" components installed on motherboard. To prevent such a situation from occurring, it is necessary to perform a CPU check at certain intervals. How to check the processor for performance, now it will be considered.

The main symptoms of failures

Any computer has a special primary input / output system, which stores the main parameters and settings of all devices installed in the system. We are talking about the structure of the BIOS and its new modification UEFI.

When the computer or laptop is turned on, all health parameters are checked, and only then the operating system starts loading. Many probably noticed the characteristic jerky signal of the system speaker immediately after turning it on. It indicates that all components are working properly. In case of failure of any of them, a series of signals is issued.

Depending on the manufacturer, it is possible to recognize violations in the operation of the processor only if you study the technical documentation. There are also standard combinations. For example, BIOS AMI emits five short beeps. uses a combination of four signals. Then a pause, two more beeps, another pause, and four more beeps (this sequence is also called a 4-2-4 combination).

As for the launch, in addition to direct signs of violations in the processor, it may be impossible to boot the system (even with an indication present) or start, after which any application freezes.

Troubleshooting by physical methods

Test Intel processors or AMD can start with physical intervention. To do this, you need to remove the processor from the motherboard socket and check its performance on another computer. If the problem appears there, it remains only to replace the processor. At best, you can try applying an additional layer of thermal paste to reduce CPU heat.

But without special knowledge, it will be quite problematic to carry out such procedures. Therefore, it is better to use special applications. Any program for testing a processor can be classified into one of two varieties: either it is a general test, or it checks only strictly defined parameters (we are not talking about CPU load control programs now).

Processor Check: General Test

For a general check, common utilities such as CPU-Z or Hot CPU Tester are suitable. When starting the testing process, all indicators related to the central processor will be determined. But, if CPU-Z is a more informative application, then Hot CPU Tester belongs to the class of test utilities.

The program for diagnosing the CPU Hot CPU Tester is very easy to use. It is enough after starting in the main window to press the button to start testing (Run Test). After a while, a report will be presented that can be printed. The only thing worth paying attention to is that before starting the test, it is recommended to close all programs that are currently active, since braking may be observed in the test application. At the same time, the mere fact that the verification process went smoothly in normal mode may already indicate that everything is in order with the processor.

Temperature testing

If we talk about which program for testing a processor in terms of temperature indicators is preferable, we should especially note such utilities as HWMonitor (section of the CPUID Hardware Monitor application), Core Temp, Open Hardware Monitor and others. Application interfaces are quite similar and do not cause any particular difficulties in use.

Some of these utilities are portable versions, so you will first need an archiver program to unpack the contents of the archive, after which the application can be launched without first installing it on your computer. The displayed parameters are also very similar, so it makes absolutely no difference which of these utilities will be used to carry out the check.

A program for diagnosing a processor in stress test mode

There is another testing technique called a stress test. Its essence is to diagnose possible malfunctions in the work. CPU at critical (peak) loads. For this, a utility called CPU Stress Test, or CST for short, is best suited.

Again, the application is portable version, which does not require installation, and at best you will need an archiver program to unpack the downloaded archive. This application is very interesting in terms of functionality.

How to check the processor for performance with it? Very simple. You just need to activate the start of the diagnostic process, after which the application, using SSE commands, will immediately begin to increase the load on the processor to 100%, and even with an increase in temperature to critical values. As already clear, all active programs must be closed for the duration of the scan.

In principle, you can also use the Prime95 utility, which, unlike the first one, puts a load not only on the CPU, but on all components as a whole.

Performance test

Finally, let's see how to test the processor for performance in terms of performance. The best way to do this is to use the unique Super PI app.

It is based on calculating the value of the number "pi" in the range from 16 thousand to 32 million decimal places. How to evaluate the result? Yes, just look at the time spent on the operation and compare it with the indicators of similar processors, for example, on the program website or the resource of the processor manufacturer. In general, it is this utility that is used by most overclockers involved in overclocking processors, thus estimating the performance gain.

Conclusion

It remains to be said that it is not worth using any one program, because each of them can be designed for strictly defined tests. It is better to conduct a comprehensive check using several utilities. Even applications for general testing or purely informative programs do not give a complete picture of all possible violations in the processor.

It is quite difficult to advise which utility to use to perform a particular task due to the fact that today there are thousands of them on the Internet. Only some types of programs have been considered here, so that any user can at least get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe general principles of checking processors and possible tests.

As for the fact that the test shows a negative result, you will either have to contact specialized centers where specialists can take some troubleshooting steps, or simply change the processor, because each CPU has its own average service life, after which no physical interference won't make it work the way it's supposed to.

Humans tend to make mistakes. He does not like to admit it publicly, but he is well aware of it. That is why humanity has created a lot of technical devices, the task of which is to simplify, speed up and guarantee the accuracy of performing a variety of demanded processes. But what if the machines start to make mistakes? In theory, this is impossible, because the electronic "mind" is not subject to emotions, distractions and fatigue. But in practice, no, no, and doubts creep in about the reliability of the data obtained. Therefore, taking into account that there are no miracles in electronics, but only bad contacts, let's try to play it safe and learn how to check at least a calculator for accuracy.

Features of the device and the operation of the calculator
An electronic computing device, or, more simply, a calculator, is well known to most modern schoolchildren, starting from elementary grades. Although their parents could only dream of such a convenient "cheat sheet" and they performed all arithmetic operations in their minds or "in a column" on a piece of paper. The life of schoolchildren and housewives who keep the family budget bookkeeping became easier at the very beginning of the 1970s, when relatively compact calculators (you could hold them in one hand) went on free sale.

Since then, specialized engineering ("scientific", support the calculation of elementary functions, numerical and symbolic), accounting (with an increased number series and the ability to automatically calculate profits, take into account taxes, convert currencies), financial (can calculate the amount of cash flows, discounts, payments on loans in the banking sector) and even graphic (display drawings and graphs). The simplest arithmetic calculators have become quite miniature and are built into mobile phones and wrist watch. But the typical design of a compact electronic calculator has remained essentially the same.

Outside the form factors in different versions, a display and a keyboard for data entry are displayed, and memory and processor chips of various capacities are hidden inside. They encrypt numeric data that people understand and need in the form of a machine-made binary-coded decimal code and use it for arithmetic calculations. As a rule, these mathematical problems are solved in one of three ways of the logic of operations. These are standard algebraic logic, arithmetic logic, and the so-called logic of computation with reverse Polish notation. But for most users, it is enough to know in what sequence to enter the calculation conditions and how to get their result.

For example, to find out how much “30 * 5 + 45” will be, you will have to sequentially press the keyboard buttons: “3”, “0”, “×”, “5”, “+”, “4”, “5”, and then "=". According to the laws of arithmetic, after pressing the plus, the multiplication of 30 by 5 will be performed. At this moment, the intermediate result for the example “150” will be displayed on the display, and only after pressing the button with the equal sign on the keyboard will the final calculation result be displayed: “195”. As for the reliability of this information, then it remains to believe the electronic "brain" or check the correctness of the calculator, thereby confirming or refuting the accuracy of its calculations.

Calculator check for accuracy
You can check the accuracy of the calculator at any time when you have such a desire or doubts about its serviceability. Because this does not require any additional devices from you and can be done exclusively by the forces of the tested unit itself. Due to the demand and prevalence of calculators around the world, resourceful users and manufacturing companies themselves have come up with several ways to verify the accuracy of electronic calculations:

  1. When squaring the number 111111111, the value 12345678987654321 should be displayed on the calculator screen. Such a numerical "palindrome" indicates the health of computer technology.
  2. When multiplying the number 12345679 by 9, nine units appear on the display of an accurate calculator: 111111111.
  3. With the sequential introduction of the conditions of the example 100 * 10 / 2 + 16 * 4, the result of the calculations should be 564. If your calculator coped with it without errors, then everything is in perfect order with its algebraic logic.
But there are situations when such relatively simple calculations are not enough. For example, when it comes to some scientific or technical processes. In these cases, not approximately and rounded, but as close as possible to the true calculation is needed. And practice shows that simple household calculators can give an error from the true value of tens and even hundreds of times (in long sequences of fractional data). In this case, the conditions of the problem often stipulate the requirement for the accuracy of the number up to n digits (in each individual case).

For this, there is a formula that is “too tough” for almost any of the currently existing calculators. But with its help, you can find out how wrong your technique is. Set the calculator to calculate the result using this formula, but enter it not in parts, but as a whole array:


The answer, which is approximately minus one, indicates that you can safely trust your calculator even the most complex calculations that require high accuracy. But be prepared for the fact that even the most modern technical calculator will not perform well in such a test. In this case, we can advise you to use the so-called emulators, or computer programs, imitating electronic technology, but differing from it in a large amount of memory, the complexity of computational processes and, accordingly, the accuracy of the results.

What else to look for when choosing a calculator
It is best to check the calculator for accuracy at the very beginning of its use, immediately before making a purchase, in order to immediately secure your work from possible errors. At the same time, pay attention to other characteristics of the device that affect the accuracy of calculations, if the processor is smaller, it is still noticeable. The size, resolution, and contrast of the display must be appropriate for the complexity of the tasks and must contain a sufficient number of characters, as well as display them clearly. The image on the keys, the quality of its application, resistance to abrasion, as well as the size and location of the buttons themselves should be convenient, practical and intuitive. Otherwise, you run the risk of getting lost over and over again when entering data and starting this, sometimes painstaking process, all over again.

High-quality equipment should be supplied with branded packaging and must be accompanied by an instruction manual for the device. By the way, in this manual, conscientious manufacturers always indicate a method for checking the accuracy of a calculator, one of those arithmetic ones that we discussed above. And, of course, check the availability and compliance with the warranty conditions both on the part of the manufacturer and the seller of the calculator. Because in the event of a malfunction and regular calculation errors, you should be able to return the failed device back. We wish you the right choice and accurate calculations.

Many PC owners are faced with various errors and failures in the computer, but cannot determine the cause of the problem. In this article, we will look at the main ways to diagnose a computer, allowing you to independently identify and fix various problems.

Keep in mind that high-quality computer diagnostics can take a whole day, allocate it in the morning specifically for this, and do not start everything in the late afternoon.

I warn you that I will write in detail as for beginners who have never disassembled a computer in order to warn about all the possible nuances that can lead to problems.

1. Disassembling and cleaning the computer

When disassembling and cleaning the computer, do not rush, do everything carefully so as not to damage anything. Store the accessories in a safe place prepared in advance.

It is not advisable to start diagnostics before cleaning, since you will not be able to identify the cause of the malfunction if it is caused by clogged contacts or the cooling system. Additionally, diagnostics may fail to complete due to repeated failures.

Disable system unit from the outlet at least 15 minutes before cleaning, so that the capacitors have time to discharge.

Perform disassembly in the following sequence:

  1. Disconnect all wires from the system unit.
  2. Remove both side covers.
  3. Disconnect the power connectors from the video card and remove it.
  4. Remove all memory sticks.
  5. Disconnect and remove the cables from all drives.
  6. Unscrew and remove all discs.
  7. Disconnect all power supply cables.
  8. Unscrew and remove the power supply.

There is no need to remove the motherboard, CPU cooler, case fans, you can also leave the DVD drive if it works fine.

Gently blow out the system unit and all components individually with a powerful stream of air from a vacuum cleaner without a dust bag.

Carefully remove the cover from the power supply and blow it through without touching the electrical components and the board with your hands and metal parts, as there may be voltage in the capacitors!

If your vacuum cleaner does not work for blowing out, but only for blowing in, then it will be a little more difficult. Clean it well so that it pulls as hard as possible. We recommend using a soft bristle brush when cleaning.

You can also use a soft brush to remove stubborn dust.

Thoroughly clean the CPU cooler heatsink, first considering where and how much dust it has clogged with dust, as this is one of the common causes of CPU overheating and PC crashes.

Also make sure that the cooler mount is not broken, the clamp is not open and the heatsink is firmly pressed against the processor.

Be careful when cleaning the fans, do not let them spin too much and do not bring the vacuum cleaner nozzle close if it is without a brush, so as not to beat off the blade.

At the end of cleaning, do not rush to collect everything back, but proceed to the next steps.

2. Checking the motherboard battery

The first thing after cleaning, so as not to forget later, I check the battery charge on the motherboard, and at the same time reset the BIOS. In order to pull it out, you need to press the latch with a flat screwdriver in the direction indicated in the photo and it will pop out by itself.

After that, you need to measure its voltage with a multimeter, optimally if it is in the range of 2.5-3 V. The initial voltage of the battery is 3 V.

If the battery voltage is below 2.5 V, then it is advisable to change it already. The voltage of 2 V is critically low and the PC is already starting to fail, which manifests itself in resetting the BIOS settings and stopping at the beginning of the PC boot, prompting you to press F1 or some other key to continue booting.

If you do not have a multimeter, you can take the battery with you to the store and ask them to check it or just buy a replacement battery in advance, it is standard and very inexpensive.

A clear sign of a dead battery is the constantly flying date and time on the computer.

The battery needs to be changed in a timely manner, but if you don’t have a replacement on hand now, then simply do not disconnect the system unit from the power supply until you change the battery. In this case, the settings should not fly off, but problems can still arise, so do not delay.

Checking the battery is a good time to completely reset the BIOS. This resets not only the BIOS settings, which can be done through the Setup menu, but also the so-called volatile CMOS memory, which stores the parameters of all devices (processor, memory, video card, etc.).

Errors inCMOSare often the cause of the following problems:

  • computer does not turn on
  • turns on once
  • turns on and nothing happens
  • turns on and off

I remind you that before resetting the BIOS, the system unit must be unplugged from the outlet, otherwise the CMOS will be powered by the PSU and nothing will work.

To reset the BIOS for 10 seconds, close the contacts in the battery connector with a screwdriver or other metal object, this is usually enough to discharge the capacitors and completely clear the CMOS.

A sign that the reset has occurred will be a lost date and time that will need to be set in the BIOS the next time the computer boots.

4. Visual inspection of components

Carefully inspect all capacitors on the motherboard for swelling and leakage, especially in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe processor socket.

Sometimes capacitors do not bulge up, but down, which causes them to tilt as if they were just slightly bent or unevenly soldered.

If some capacitors are swollen, then you need to send the motherboard for repair as soon as possible and ask to re-solder all the capacitors, including those that are next to the swollen ones.

Also inspect the capacitors and other elements of the power supply, there should be no swelling, drips, signs of burning.

Inspect the disc contacts for oxidation.

They can be cleaned with an eraser and after that it is imperative to replace the cable or power adapter with which this disk was connected, since it is already damaged and oxidation has most likely occurred due to it.

In general, check all the cables and connectors so that they are clean, with shiny contacts, tightly connected to the drives and the motherboard. All cables that do not meet these requirements must be replaced.

Check that the wires from the front of the case to the motherboard are connected correctly.

It is important that the polarity is observed (plus to plus, minus to minus), since there is a total mass on the front panel and non-observance of the polarity will lead to a short circuit, due to which the computer may behave inappropriately (turn on every other time, turn itself off or reboot) .

Where the plus and minus in the contacts of the front panel is indicated on the board itself, in the paper manual for it and in the electronic version of the manual on the manufacturer's website. On the wire contacts from the front panel, it is also indicated where the plus and minus are. Usually the white wire is negative, and the positive connector can be indicated by a triangle on the plastic connector.

Many even experienced builders make a mistake here, so check.

5. Checking the power supply

If the computer did not turn on at all before cleaning, then do not rush to assemble it, the first thing to do is check the power supply. However, in any case, it won’t hurt to check the PSU, maybe it’s because of it that the computer fails.

Check the power supply when fully assembled to avoid electric shock, short circuit, or accidental fan failure.

To check the power supply, short the only green wire in the motherboard connector with any black one. This will signal to the PSU that it is connected to the motherboard, otherwise it will not turn on.

Then turn the power supply into the surge protector and press the button on it. Do not forget that the power supply itself may also have an on / off button.

A spinning fan should be a sign of turning on the power supply. If the fan does not spin, then it may have failed and needs to be replaced.

In some silent power supplies, the fan may not start spinning immediately, but only under load, this is normal and can be checked during PC operation.

Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the pins in the connectors for peripheral devices.

They should be approximately in the following range.

  • 12 V (yellow-black) - 11.7-12.5 V
  • 5 V (red-black) - 4.7-5.3 V
  • 3.3 V (orange-black) - 3.1-3.5 V

If any voltage is missing or goes far beyond the specified limits, then the power supply is faulty. It is best to replace it with a new one, but if the computer itself is inexpensive, then repairs are allowed, PSUs lend themselves to this easily and inexpensively.

The start of the power supply and normal voltages is a good sign, but in itself it does not mean that the power supply is good, since failures can occur due to voltage drops or ripple under load. But this is already determined in the subsequent stages of testing.

6. Checking the power contacts

Be sure to check all electrical contacts from the outlet to the system unit. The socket must be modern (for a European plug), reliable and not loose, with clean elastic contacts. The same requirements apply to the surge protector and cable from the computer power supply.

Contact must be reliable, plugs and connectors must not dangle, spark or be oxidized. Pay close attention to this, as poor contact is often the cause of failure of the system unit, monitor, and other peripheral devices.

If you have a suspicion of a power outlet, surge protector, power cable for a system unit or monitor, then change them as soon as possible to avoid damaging your computer. Do not delay and do not skimp on this, as repairing a PC or monitor will cost significantly more.

Also, poor contact is often the cause of PC failures, which are accompanied by a sudden shutdown or reboot, followed by failures on the hard drive and, as a result, disruption of the operating system.

More failures can occur due to voltage drops or ripples in the 220 V network, especially in the private sector and remote areas of the city. In this case, failures can occur even when the computer is idle. Try to measure the voltage at the outlet immediately after a spontaneous shutdown or reboot of the computer and observe the readings for a while. So you can identify long-term drawdowns, from which a linear-interactive UPS with a stabilizer will save.

7. Assembling and turning on the computer

After cleaning and inspecting the PC, carefully assemble it and carefully check that you have connected everything you need. If the computer refused to turn on before cleaning or turned on every other time, then it is advisable to connect the components in turn. If there were no such problems, then skip the next section.

7.1. Step by step PC build

First, connect the motherboard power connector and the processor power connector to the motherboard with the processor. Do not insert RAM, video card and do not connect disks.

Power on the PC and if motherboard Everything is fine, the CPU cooler fan should spin. Also, if a buzzer is connected to the motherboard, a beep code usually sounds, indicating the absence random access memory.

Memory installation

Turn off the computer with a short or (if not possible) long press of the power button on the system unit and insert one stick of RAM into the colored slot closest to the processor. If all slots are the same color, then just the one closest to the processor.

Make sure that the memory bar is inserted evenly, all the way and the latches snap into place, otherwise it may be damaged when you turn on the PC.

If the computer starts up with one memory bar and there is a beep, then a code usually sounds, signaling that there is no video card (if there is no integrated graphics). If the beep code indicates problems with the RAM, then try inserting another bar in the same place. If the problem continues or if there is no other bar, then move the bar to another nearest slot. If there are no sounds, then everything is probably fine, continue on.

Turn off the computer and insert the second stick of memory into the slot of the same color. If the motherboard has 4 slots of the same color, then follow the instructions for the motherboard so that the memory is in the slots recommended for dual-channel mode. Then turn it on again and check if the PC turns on and what beeps it makes.

If you have 3 or 4 sticks of memory, then just insert them in turn, each time turning off and on the PC. If the computer does not start with a certain bar or gives a memory error code, then this bar is faulty. You can also check the motherboard slots by rearranging the work bar in different slots.

Some motherboards have a red indicator that glows in case of memory problems, and sometimes a segment indicator with an error code, the decoding of which is in the motherboard manual.

If the computer starts, then further memory testing occurs at another stage.

Installing a graphics card

It's time to test the video card by inserting it into the top PCI-E x16 slot (or AGP for older PCs). Do not forget to connect additional power to the video card with the appropriate connectors.

With a video card, the computer should start normally, without beeps, or with a single beep, indicating a normal self-test.

If the PC does not turn on or emits a beep error code for the video card, then it is most likely defective. But do not rush to conclusions, sometimes you just need to connect a monitor and keyboard.

Monitor connection

Turn off the PC and connect the monitor to the video card (or motherboard if there is no video card). Make sure that the connector to the video card and the monitor is connected tightly, sometimes tight connectors do not go all the way, which is the reason for the lack of image on the screen.

Turn on the monitor and make sure that the correct signal source is selected on it (the connector to which the PC is connected, if there are several).

Turn on the computer and a graphic splash screen and motherboard text messages should appear on the screen. Usually this is a suggestion to enter the BIOS using the F1 key, a message about the absence of a keyboard or boot devices, this is normal.

If the computer turns on silently, but there is nothing on the screen, there is most likely something wrong with the video card or monitor. The video card can only be checked by moving it to a working computer. The monitor can be connected to another working PC or device (laptop, player, tuner, etc.). Do not forget to select the desired signal source in the monitor settings.

Keyboard and mouse connection

If everything is fine with the video card and monitor, then we move on. In turn, connect the keyboard first, then the mouse, each time turning off and on the PC. If the computer freezes after connecting the keyboard or mouse, then they need to be replaced - it happens!

Connecting Drives

If the computer starts with a keyboard and mouse, then we start connecting in turn hard disks. Connect a second drive without an operating system (if any) first.

Do not forget that in addition to connecting the interface cable to the motherboard, you also need to connect the connector from the power supply to the disk.

Then turn on the computer and if it comes to BIOS messages, then everything is fine. If the PC does not turn on, freezes or turns off by itself, then the controller of this disk is out of order and needs to be changed or taken in for repair to save data.

Turn off the computer and connect the DVD drive (if any) with an interface cable and power supply. If after that problems arise, then the drive fails in power supply and needs to be changed, it usually does not make sense to repair.

At the end, we connect the main system disk and prepare to enter the BIOS for initial setup before starting the operating system. We turn on the computer and if everything is fine, proceed to the next step.

When you turn on your computer for the first time, enter the BIOS. Usually, the Delete key is used for this, less often others (F1, F2, F10 or Esc), which is indicated in the prompts at the beginning of the download.

On the first tab, set the date and time, and on the "Boot" tab, select yours as the first boot device. HDD with the operating system.

On older motherboards with a classic BIOS, it might look like this.

On more modern ones with a graphical shell, UEFI is a little different, but the meaning is the same.

To exit the BIOS and save the settings, press F10. Do not get distracted and watch the operating system fully boot to notice possible problems.

After the PC has finished booting, check if the fans of the processor cooler, power supply and video card are working, otherwise it makes no sense to carry out further testing.

Some modern video cards may not turn on the fans until a certain temperature of the video chip is reached.

If any of the case fans are not working, then this is not a problem, just plan to replace it in the near future, do not be distracted by it now.

8. Error analysis

Here, in fact, diagnostics begin, and all of the above was only preparation, after which many problems could go away and without it it made no sense to start testing.

8.1. Enabling memory dumps

If blue screens of death (BSOD) appear during computer operation, this can greatly facilitate the identification of a malfunction. A prerequisite for this is the presence of memory dumps (or at least self-written error codes).

To check or enable the dump recording function, press the key combination "Win + R" on the keyboard, enter "sysdm.cpl" in the line that appears and press OK or Enter.

In the window that appears, go to the "Advanced" tab and in the "Startup and Recovery" section, click the "Options" button.

The "Write debug information" field should be "Small memory dump".

If so, then you should already have previous error dumps in the C:\Windows\Minidump folder.

If this option was not enabled, then dumps were not saved, enable it at least now to be able to analyze errors if they are repeated.

Memory dumps may not be able to be created during severe crashes such as rebooting or shutting down the PC. Also, some system cleaning utilities and antiviruses can remove them, you must disable the system cleaning function for the duration of the diagnosis.

If there are dumps in the specified folder, then proceed to their analysis.

8.2. Memory dump analysis

To analyze memory dumps in order to identify what causes failures, there is a wonderful BlueScreenView utility, which you, along with other diagnostic utilities, can download in the "" section.

This utility shows the files that have failed. These files belong to the operating system, device drivers or some program. Accordingly, by the ownership of the file, you can determine which device or software was the cause of the failure.

If you cannot boot your computer in normal mode, then try booting into safe mode by holding down the "F8" key immediately after the disappearance of the motherboard graphic splash screen or BIOS text messages.

Go through the dumps and see which files appear most often as the culprits of the crash, they are highlighted in red. Right-click on one of these files and view its Properties.

In our case, it is easy to determine that the file belongs to the nVidia video card driver and most of the errors were caused by it.

In addition, in some dumps, the file "dxgkrnl.sys" appeared, even from the name of which it is clear that it refers to DirectX, which is directly related to 3D graphics. So, it is most likely that the video card is to blame for the failure, which should be subjected to thorough testing, which we will also consider.

In the same way, you can determine that the cause of the failure is a sound card, network card, hard drive, or some kind of program that gets deep into the system such as an antivirus. For example, if a disk fails, the controller driver will crash.

If you cannot determine which driver or program a particular file belongs to, then look for this information on the Internet by the name of the file.

If failures occur in the driver sound card, it's most likely out of order. If it is integrated, then you can disable it through the BIOS and install another discrete one. The same can be said about the network card. However, network failures can be caused, which often resolves by updating the network card driver and connecting to the internet through a router.

In any case, do not make hasty conclusions until the diagnostics are completed, maybe your Windows just crashes or a virus has climbed, which is solved by reinstalling the system.

Also in the BlueScreenView utility, you can see the error codes and inscriptions that were on blue screen. To do this, go to the "Options" menu and select the "Blue Screen in XP Style" view or press the "F8" key.

After that, switching between errors, you will see how they looked on the blue screen.

By the error code, you can also find a possible cause of the problem on the Internet, but it is easier and more reliable to do this by file ownership. You can use the F6 key to return to the previous view.

If errors always appear different files and various error codes, then this is a sign possible problems with RAM, in which everything crashes. We will diagnose it first of all.

9. Testing RAM

Even if you think that the problem is not in the RAM, still check it first. Sometimes a place has several problems, and if the RAM fails, then diagnosing everything else is quite difficult due to frequent PC failures.

Running a memory test from a boot disk is a must, as it is difficult to get accurate results on a Windows operating system on a failed PC.

In addition, "Hiren's BootCD" contains several alternative memory tests in case "Memtest 86+" does not start and many more useful utilities for testing. hard drives, video memory, etc.

You can download the "Hiren's BootCD" image in the same place as everything else - in the "" section. If you do not know how to burn such an image to a CD or DVD, refer to the article where we reviewed, everything is done in the same way.

Set BIOS to boot from DVD drive or use Boot Menu as described in , boot from Hiren's BootCD and run Memtest 86+.

Testing can last from 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the speed and amount of RAM. One full pass should be completed and the test will go for the second round. If everything is fine with the memory, then after the first pass (Pass 1) there should be no errors (Errors 0).

After that, testing can be interrupted using the "Esc" key and the computer will restart.

If there were errors, then you will have to test each bar separately, taking out all the others to determine which one is broken.

If the broken bar is still under warranty, then take a photo from the screen using a camera or smartphone and present it to the warranty department of the store or service center (although in most cases this is not necessary).

In any case, it is not advisable to use a PC with a broken memory and carry out further diagnostics before replacing it, as various incomprehensible errors will pour in.

10. Preparation for component tests

Everything else, except for RAM, is tested from under Windows. Therefore, in order to exclude the influence of the operating system on the test results, it is advisable to do, if necessary, temporarily and most.

If this is difficult for you or there is no time, then you can try testing on the old system. But, if failures occur due to malfunctions in the operating system, some kind of driver, program, virus, antivirus (i.e., in the software part), then testing the hardware will not help determine this and you may go the wrong way. And on a clean system, you will have the opportunity to see how the computer behaves and completely eliminate the influence of the software component.

Personally, I always do everything right from start to finish as described in this article. Yes, it takes a whole day, but neglecting my advice, you can fight for weeks without determining the cause of the problem.

The fastest and easiest way is to test the processor, unless of course there are obvious signs that the problem is, say, in the video card, which we will discuss below.

If your computer, after some time after turning on, starts to slow down, freezes when watching videos, in games, suddenly reboots or turns off under load, then there is a possibility of overheating of the processor. In fact, this is one of the most common causes of such problems.

At the stage of cleaning and visual inspection, you should have made sure that the CPU cooler is not clogged with dust, its fan rotates, and the heatsink is firmly pressed against the processor. I also hope you didn't take it off when you cleaned it, as that requires replacing the thermal paste, which I'll talk about later.

We will use "CPU-Z" for the stress test with the processor warming up, and "HWiNFO" for monitoring its temperature. Although it is better to use the proprietary utility of the motherboard to monitor the temperature, it is more accurate. For example, ASUS has "PC Probe".

To begin with, it would be nice to know the maximum allowable thermal package of your processor (T CASE). For example, for my Core i7-6700K it is 64°C.

You can find out by going to the manufacturer's website from an Internet search. This is the critical temperature in the heat spreader (under the processor cover), the maximum allowed by the manufacturer. Don't confuse it with the temperature of the cores, which is usually higher and is also displayed in some utilities. Therefore, we will focus not on the temperature of the cores according to the processor sensors, but on the overall temperature of the processor according to the readings of the motherboard.

In practice, for most older processors, the critical temperature above which failures begin is 60 °C. The most modern processors can work at 70 ° C, which is also critical for them. You can find out the real stable temperature of your processor from tests on the Internet.

So, we launch both utilities - “CPU-Z” and “HWiNFO”, find the processor (CPU) temperature sensor in the motherboard indicators, run the test in “CPU-Z” with the “Stress CPU” button and monitor the temperature.

If after 10-15 minutes of the test the temperature is 2-3 degrees lower than the critical one for your processor, then there is nothing to worry about. But, if there were failures under high load, then it is better to run this test for 30-60 minutes. If during testing the PC freezes or reboots, then you should think about improving the cooling.

Keep in mind that a lot also depends on the temperature in the room, it is possible that in cooler conditions the problem will not manifest itself, but in hotter conditions it will immediately make itself felt. So you always need cooling with a margin.

In case of CPU overheating, check if your cooler complies with . If not, then you need to change it, no tricks will help here. If the cooler is powerful enough, but can't cope a little, then you should change the thermal paste for a more efficient one, and at the same time the cooler itself may be installed more successfully.

From inexpensive, but very good thermal pastes, I can recommend Artic MX-4.

It should be applied in a thin layer, after removing the old paste dry and then with cotton wool soaked in alcohol.

Replacing thermal paste will give you a gain of 3-5 ° C, if this is not enough, then simply install case fans, at least the most inexpensive ones.

14. Drive testing

This is the longest stage after the RAM test, so I prefer to leave it for last. To begin with, you can test the speed of all disks using the HDTune utility, to which I give "". This sometimes helps to identify freezes when accessing the disk, which indicates problems with it.

Look at the SMART options, where "disk health" is displayed, there should be no red lines and the overall status of the disk should be "OK".

You can download the list of the main SMART parameters and what they are responsible for in the "" section.

A full surface test can be performed using the same utilities from under Windows. The process can take 2-4 hours depending on the size and speed of the disk (about 1 hour for every 500 MB). At the end of the test, there should not be a single broken block, which are highlighted in red.

The presence of such a block is an unequivocal verdict for the disk and a 100% guarantee case. Save your data faster and change the drive, just don't tell the service that you dropped your laptop

You can check the surface of both conventional hard drives (HDD) and solid state drives (SSD). The latter really do not have any surface, but if the HDD or SSD drive will hang every time during the check, which means that the electronics most likely will fail - you need to change or repair (the latter is unlikely).

If you are unable to diagnose the disk from under Windows, the computer crashes or freezes, then try to do this using the MHDD utility from the Hiren's BootCD boot disk.

Problems with the controller (electronics) and the disk surface lead to windows with errors in the operating system, short-term and complete freezes of the computer. Usually these are messages about the impossibility to read a particular file and memory access errors.

Such errors can be mistaken for problems with the RAM, while the disk may well be to blame. Before you panic, try updating the disk controller driver, or vice versa, return the native windows driver as described in .

15. Testing the optical drive

To check an optical drive, it is usually enough to simply burn a verification disc. For example, using the Astroburn program, it is in the "" section.

After burning a disc with a message about successful verification, try to completely copy its contents on another computer. If the disc is readable and the drive reads other discs (except for poorly readable ones), then everything is fine.

Drive problems I've encountered include electronic failures that completely hung up or prevented the computer from turning on, breakage of the retractable mechanism, contamination of the laser head lens, and breakage of the head as a result of improper cleaning. In most cases, everything is solved by replacing the drive, since they are inexpensive and even if they have not been used for several years, they die from dust.

16. Hull check

The case also sometimes breaks, then the button sticks, then the wiring from the front panel falls off, then it closes in the USB connector. All this can lead to unpredictable behavior of the PC and is solved by a thorough inspection, cleaning, tester, soldering iron and other improvised means.

The main thing is that nothing is short, which may be indicated by a broken light bulb or connector. If in doubt, disconnect all wires from the front of the case and try to work at the computer for a while.

17. Checking the motherboard

Often, checking the motherboard comes down to checking all the components. If all components individually work properly and pass the tests, operating system reinstalled, but the computer still crashes, maybe it's in the motherboard. And here I won’t help you, only an experienced electronics engineer can diagnose it and identify a problem with a chipset or processor socket.

The exception is the crash of a sound or network card, which is solved by disabling them in the BIOS and installing separate expansion cards. You can solder the capacitors in the motherboard, but let's say replacing the north bridge is usually not advisable, since it is expensive and there are no guarantees, it is better to immediately buy a new motherboard.

18. If nothing helps

Of course, it is always better to discover the problem yourself and determine The best way solutions, as some unscrupulous repairmen strive to hang noodles on your ears and tear off three skins.

But it may be that you follow all the recommendations, but you will not be able to determine the problem, it happened to me. In this case, the matter is more often in the motherboard or in the power supply, maybe there is a microcrack in the textolite and it makes itself felt from time to time.

In this case, nothing can be done, bring the entire system unit to a more or less well-established computer company. No need to wear parts in parts, if you are not sure what the matter is, then the issue will never be resolved. Let them figure it out, especially if the computer is still under warranty.

Computer store specialists usually do not worry, they have a lot of different components, they just change something and see if the problem is gone, thus fixing the problem quickly and simply. They also have enough time to conduct tests.

19. Links

Transcend JetFlash 790 8GB
Hard drive Western Digital Caviar Blue WD10EZEX 1 TB
Transcend StoreJet 25A3 TS1TSJ25A3K

). In this case, some begin to worry and look for all sorts of causes and ways to fix freezes.
I will not repeat myself and write why this happens, because. the article is not about this and I already gave a link to solving problems above.
I'd rather show you one interesting way that will help you check the system for errors.

Few people know, but in Windows there is one useful "trick" that can itself search and correct errors in the system itself. Moreover, it will not touch third-party programs, but will only check its system files. This is useful and interesting in that many do not think that the reason may be hiding in the system itself, but start frantically, and so on. Generally . Yes, this is useful and can lead to good results, but with all these actions, it is good to remember something else that I will write about below.

I already wrote a little about this function in the article, which can also occur due to a failure in system files, which are often forgotten about. But still, in the framework of this article, I will repeat ...

So let's run:

and enter into it sfc /scannow:


The system check will start:


You just have to wait.

For those who are interested, here is a description of the command and keys.

sfc
where:
/scannow - performs an immediate scan of all protected system files.
/scanonce - one-time scan of all protected system files at the next system boot.
/scanboot - scans all protected system files on every boot
/REVERT - Sets the original default options.
/ENABLE - Enable normal operation of Windows File Protection
/PURGECACHE - Purge file cache and check files immediately
/CACHESIZE=x - Sets the file cache size

AT command line(Start -> Run -> cmd) write the sfc / command and the desired key.

After the check is completed, the system will report the results and ask you to reboot.

That's all for me. Thank you all for your attention.

Hello! Many PC owners often find themselves thinking that their machine is not fast enough, so to speak, “freezes”.

In this case, it is worth testing your “iron friend” and identifying the reason for this behavior. Today I will tell you how to check the speed of your computer. But first, let's decide why this should be done.

Why is verification needed?

There are a number of reasons why you should waste precious time on tests:

  • The test will allow you to understand which tasks your computer can perform easily and which are difficult for it.
  • If you are going to purchase a new PC or laptop, then using the results of the check, you will be able to choose the most suitable model that will meet all your needs.
  • You will know which components are running slowly, and you can replace them during the upgrade.
  • You can compare the characteristics of your computer with the PC of one of your friends and find out whose PC is the most powerful.

How to do it?

Well, checking performance is a very necessary and important thing, but how do you know the speed, how can you measure it? In order to find out the speed of your computer, you will need a PC with Windows system, the usual set of applications of this OS and my instructions, which I will describe below.

You can check it in three easy ways:

  1. using the Windows Experience Level Index;
  2. using the dispatcher Windows tasks, which should already be familiar to you;
  3. based on the use of special programs.

Let's consider each of them in detail.

First way

Windows has one extremely useful utility called " performance index". This application takes measurements of your PC, shows the score of each and, of course, in general evaluates the performance of the system. At the same time, the size of the overall indicator does not exceed the smallest indicator among the elements.

In versions 7, 8 of Windows and Vista in the Control Panel, you need the section "Counters and performance tools" (in windows xp, performance cannot be checked in this way).

If we talk about the 7th version: the maximum score is 7.9, the average is from 3.5 to 5. If the performance level index is more than five, then you can not worry about anything. However, if the scores are below 3.5, then your PC should either be replaced with a new one, or an old one should be upgraded (which will be much cheaper).

In Vista, the maximum is 5.9, and in 8-ke - 9.9.

In Windows 8.1 and 10, performance testing is done using PowerShell. To open it in search line on the start screen, write "PowerShell", in the search results, right-click on the icon of the found utility and select the line "Run as administrator" in the context menu.

AT Windows program PowerShell type winsat formal and press Enter. As a result of these actions, you will see the following:

There is one small feature: if you are doing a test on a laptop, then it must be connected to a 220V network, otherwise the program will give an error.

The whole process may take several minutes, and the result will be saved here:
C:\Windows\Performance\WinSAT\DataStore\...Formal.Assessment (Recent).WinSAT.xml.

You cannot test the system in a Windows PowerShell program without administrator rights, you can only see the performance scores that were set as a result of the previous test. To do this, write "Get-CimInstance Win32_WinSAT" and press Enter. As a result you will see:

Second way

If you want to have an extremely accurate idea of ​​what the speed of your system is, then this method will be most convenient for you. Its main advantage over the above is that it is able to demonstrate not only how fast the computer itself is, but also how fast its individual elements have.

To determine the quality of work in this way, you must perform the following steps:

  1. Simultaneously press Alt, Ctrl, Delete keys.
  2. Click on "Task Manager".
  3. In the task manager, select the tab called "Performance".

In "Performance" you will see how well your computer functions. If the level of quality of his work is insufficient, then you can try to upgrade your machine.

Graphs allow you to determine what is the reason for the slow operation of the PC: with processor load or lack of RAM. A green line indicates excellent performance, a yellow line indicates an acceptable level, but if the line is red, then urgent action is needed.

Third way

This method consists in using special programs. There are special applications that are created specifically to collect data about the state of the computer.

There's just a bunch of all sorts of tests, numbers and information. With these products, you can get the most comprehensive data on the performance of your PC. What are these programs? Here is a list of the ones I have used:

Everest. It was created primarily for analyzing the configuration of a PC, but it provides a large number of different tests.

SiSoftware Sandra. At the moment, the best option if you want to test the level of performance.

3Dmark. His main specialization is testing computer graphics cards. It consists of a huge number of different texturing tests, working with 3D modeling, etc. There is also a complex testing option, reminiscent of a video game that is played not by you, but by the program. In the course of its work, it evaluates the stability of the video card during significant loads, measures the frame rate.

PCMark. It is a lightweight software designed for limited use. Serves only to check the performance. Allows you to perform integral testing of any PC component. The main feature is the ability to compare the performance of your own computer with the average coefficient around the world.

You can download these programs on the official Internet resources of their developers online.

Well, that's all, dear friends! In the end, I would like to tell you about the training course, the effectiveness of which I was able to "test" on myself. It's about the course Secrets of successful computer work».

From a huge number of other similar courses, the presented one differs primarily in the high professionalism of the author and the simplicity of presentation. All the subtleties of working on a PC are presented so simply and clearly that even elderly people, who, as you know, shun modern technology, turn into experienced users in a couple of months of training.

I wish you to be computer literate people, and I and my blog will help you become such. Therefore, do not forget to subscribe to updates and follow the release of a new article.

Share information on social media. networks, see you soon!

Sincerely! Abdullin Ruslan

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