Apple magsafe 85w laptop power adapter repair. We repair MagSafe L-type (G-type). Where to Buy a MacBook Power Adapter

Regular readers are aware that I often criticize original Apple wires. For 7 years of using Apple technology, not a single wire has survived in its original form! More often than not, the braid of the wire would slide off on its own, exposing the insides of the wire. As a result, on the site I began to recommend alternative wires with Ali. I also bought five different ones for myself.

The other day I had another problem. My cable is dead Macbook Pro. I rewound it with electrical tape 4 times in 6 years ... This time I just broke the shielded wire at the charging point. I had to urgently understand the types of charging and look for a replacement. What did I learn? I will write about it below...

The most important information about the MacBook power adapter and cable

The Apple website has one that will help you choose adapters. You can read it. I will highlight only the 3 most important points. A very useful phrase that will help you understand if a different type of adapter is right for you:

Mac laptop power adapters are available in 29W, 45W, 60W, 61W, 85W, and 87W. For each Mac laptop It is recommended to use a power adapter of adequate capacity. Using a compatible adapter is more high power will not interfere with the operation of the computer, but it will not reduce charging time or improve performance. Less low wattage adapters do not provide enough power.

There are 3 types of adapters in total: USB-C, MagSafe 2, MagSafe 1. The services ask about the L-type and T-type adapters. In the store where I ended up buying, the L-type was called the G-type. The type is determined by the shape of the connector, similar to the corresponding letter.

Where to buy a power adapter for a MacBook?

The easiest option is to go to the Apple website and buy it there. Or from official resellers. The main problem is the price. All adapters cost 5790 rubles….
In my opinion, this is a lot ... Let's move on to the cheaper option.

Find a store in your city that specializes in cables/power adapters and other accessories. I found this on Avito. It turned out that there is a nice shop in the city center where the adapter was offered for 2200. As a result, I went there and they sold it to me for 1970.

But if the replacement of the adapter does not light up, then you can buy an adapter on Aliexpress. I've only found one shop that does this. They cost 23-27 dollars, that is, in the region of 1,500 rubles. There is only one minus of non-original adapters at first sight - they heat up more than the original. There is a warning about this on the power supply.

And now attention! It's one thing to buy Chinese cables, and another to buy power supplies. A week passed after buying a Chinese adapter, one evening my wife and I were watching the White Collar series on my laptop. And suddenly, suddenly, my adapter clicks hard, something flashes inside it and the apartment plunges into darkness. It turned out the power supply burned out and we knocked out the plugs. I returned my 1970 rubles under the guarantee and was almost ready to buy the original cable ...

How to fix MagSafe

... But I came across instructions for disassembling the L-cable. It turns out this is easy to do. The procedure looks like this step by step. I will describe a little more.

We take pliers and a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver as a lever, remove the magnet with which the cable clings to the laptop.

We hook the internal module with tongs and pull it out through the hole in the remaining tube.

We take a soldering iron for small jobs. I purchased at a nearby store for 320 rubles. You can buy in large hardware stores from 170 rubles. Plus tin with rosin from 60 rubles.

We remember which side the inner core is attached to, and which outer one. Carefully unsolder the wire from the module. Next, we cut off a small piece of cable so that both cores come out of the same size (my gap did not allow them to be soldered together - I had to cut it off).

In the reverse order, we assemble the L-block.

We check - everything works.

As a result, my repair costs amounted to 380 rubles (and even then, there was simply no sanding iron) and 20 minutes of time.

Good luck to all! And fewer bad wires. :)

Like many macbook users in my life, there came a moment when my MagSafe connector stopped working correctly (only at a certain angle), and then stopped charging altogether.

Having searched a little on the RuNet, I found several instructions for repairing old MagSafe adapters, there was really nothing about repairing the L-shaped one. I decided to repair it myself, since the cost of a new one is around $ 80.
To summarize: I made mine and later 2 more bought for $ 15 each (one is now at work, the 2nd which was almost new was presented). Small repair instructions below:

For repairs, I needed a soldering iron, pliers, a knife, a scalpel (optional), insulating material.

First you need to remove the magnet from the socket in the connector, I’ll say right away that it’s not so easy, although it’s unlikely to break anything. I acted with pliers (clamping the magnet) and slipped a screwdriver between the cylinder (connector body) and pliers and acted as a lever (I didn’t understand this right away (I tried to just pull out the magnet), so the magnet in the photo is in this condition, subsequent patients are almost not damaged) .

Then we carefully cut the glue around the edges and move the entire structure inside the cylinder (you need to gently pull the wire and pry it out with something). After the connector has come out of the groove, pull it towards you (remove it from the shell), as a result, the entire filling of the connector should be pulled out.

After the filling of the connector was outside, the problem became visible (in the photo, if you look closely, you can see that the “outer” wire has broken (it was the same with the next 2)):

Cut and prepare the ends of the wire:

We unsolder the remnants of the wire from the connector and solder it to where it was before (I will not describe the soldering process, I myself am not an expert in this, but anyone who has a desire can handle it, in which case you can always ask someone for help).

We isolate the wires with heat shrink (duct tape) or other insulating material.

After that, you can already check the performance of the connector (by connecting to the beech).

We collect everything in the reverse order (I hope you did not remove the aluminum case from the wire). I added a little glue (so much so that I could take it apart again, in which case).

I hope this post was helpful to someone. Sorry for the quality of the photos, some of them were shot on iphone 3gs, under artificial lighting, and I didn’t think that I would ever publish them.

Thank you for your attention, I hope the article was useful to someone and he was able to treat his pet.

Once upon a time, the power supply for my laptop began to bug out - it would go out, then it would go out, then it would work. On occasion, a "native" replacement adapter was ordered abroad, and the problematic one was put in a closet and forgotten. Years passed... Well, in general, a lot of time passed, I decided to fix the old PSU and save myself from having to carry this box from home to office and back.

The problem was in the cable, more precisely, in the connector (I have an angled, metal one). By moving this node, it was possible to achieve a position in which the diode burned and charging was in progress. But not for long. Therefore, a Chinese cable was ordered from Aliexpress for repair. Here's one. It cost 336 rubles, drove for about a month.

While the cable was traveling, repair manuals and a man who could handle a soldering iron were found.

Cable repair, an option for those with straight arms.

Unlike the author, I did not completely tear off the connector from the cable. After disassembly, he remained soldered to the central wire. But the connector ended up looking sad, plus one spring-loaded pin sank and it was not possible to pull it back out. In short, I screwed up the connector, but a couple of useful conclusions remained:

At this stage, a rectangular edging from a cylindrical base should be tried to be pulled strictly perpendicular. Straight, without creases, otherwise delicate contact pins will suffer.

After removing the edging, the “stuffing” of the connector needs to be hooked only from the end, do not touch the sides - there is plastic, it is very thin and soft, there are fireflies-diodes under it.

If I had the right tools and straightened arms, this would be the end of my part of the work, since I do not know how to solder. In this case, the ordered cable would have remained out of work, in reserve. But it didn't happen.

We change the cable, we go from the other side. Here's Instructables explains how to disassemble the power supply box itself without the use of a dremel and other sawing and cutting tools.

In general, it turned out, although the plastic suffered more than the author of the instructions. Again, a lot depends on the tools.

The first step is to find a tool with the right size and decent leverage. The expanding parts should be adjacent to the surface along the entire length, or, in any case, do not press at 2 points, so you can break through the case, but you will not be able to open it.

When assembling the case, I even managed not to carry my hands in superglue, which rarely happens. Lucky day!

The Chinese cable is very high quality. Perhaps a little different in shade, although I don’t remember the shade of the new original cable, mine could easily fade and turn yellow.

One of the frequent "sores" of Apple computers is a problem with the wire at their charger. MagSafe power adapters of the old (T-type) often frayed the cable sheath at the entrance to the connector or at the exit from the adapter itself. Fortunately, with straight arms and a soldering iron, this problem was easily fixed at home.
With the advent of the first Macbook Air a new type of charger connector has appeared, the so-called. L-type, which was slightly upgraded in the next generations of Unibody models and is now used in the entire line of Apple laptops. So, during the operation of these new "charges" a new defect appeared. With inaccurate and active use of new chargers with an L-type connector, for some users the wire is frayed and simply comes off the connector. The saddest thing is that this usually happens inside the connector seal and it is impossible to solder the wire without disassembling it. And here the most interesting begins: in appearance, the connector housing is made of a monolithic aluminum cylinder and seems to be unrepairable.
Apple responded to all problems with its chargers with a promise to replace them under warranty for free with new ones, but we live in Russia and we understand very well that service principles that work in the West do not always work for us. Plus, many Mac users in Russia live so far from Apple service centers that it’s much cheaper not to change the charger, but just throw it away. It is for such users that this article is intended.

We have:
1. Charger 60W with L-type MagSafe connector torn off to the very root
2. refusal of the service center to replace it due to the expired warranty (Apple promised to replace these adapters with new ones even after the warranty period expired)

After half an hour of futile attempts to disassemble this unfortunate connector using non-destructive methods, we arm ourselves with a drill with a cutting wheel and cut along the perimeter of the connector to separate it into two halves and develop a possible algorithm for its non-destructive disassembly and repair. bezel surrounding the pins of the connector. Later it was concluded that this is the first of the necessary steps in disassembly.
10 minutes of careful work with a drill and in our hands lies a connector sawn in half, showing us its design. So, the algorithm:
We fix the connector in a small vise or in some other reliable way.
We clamp the magnet with pliers and smoothly, but applying a sufficiently large force, pull it out of the connector.

Try to pull strictly perpendicular to the body, otherwise you risk breaking a couple of mounting pins at its base and bending the connector pins.

Removed and set aside.
We arm ourselves with a thick needle and, inserting it into the hole from the mounting pin of the magnet (the one that is farthest from the wire), we shift the filling of the connector all the way towards the wire (about a millimeter). Using the same needle, we pry the filling over the hole and carefully remove it from the case. wire coming from the charger, we collect its outer braid and solder the ends of the wires (the required length of the stripped wire is about 2.5 mm). I will draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to flatten the tinned wires slightly with pliers, because. inside the connector is very crowded and every millimeter counts.
We pass it through the case and output it through the hole in the contact pad of the connector.
We unsolder the remnants of the old wire and carefully, observing the polarity, solder the wire to the contact pads. With a needle file, we remove burrs and protruding sections from the tinned wire at the place of soldering, thereby reducing the outer diameter of this section and blowing off the metal filings. Before assembling the connector, it is advisable to check it: insert the charger into the socket and press the connector contacts to the counterpart on the laptop. The laptop is charging and the LED on the connector board lights up? Then let's move on.
According to the above scheme, we tighten the filling inside the connector housing, fix the contact pad inside the housing, shifting it in the opposite direction from the wire by a millimeter, and assemble it. We insert the magnet we removed at the first stage into its place, having previously dripped a couple of small drops of superglue onto the pins on its reverse side.
Congratulations, after 15 minutes, when the glue dries, you can use the charger.
P.S. repost added due to interest in the topic