Blog of Dmitry Evtifeev. RAW processing: how to get the most out of your photos
Working with RAW files
annotation
This course work will study the RAW format and the features of working with files in this format. Studying this format implies:
1 The process of obtaining photographs;
2 Review of software products;
Photo correction;
Among the many ways to create various graphic objects, photography is interesting. Having appeared at the end of the 19th century, in our time it is of great interest to many people, since it is not only a way to capture an event or a person, but also performs an aesthetic function. Photography has come a long way in development, and at this stage, due to the development of computer technology and the emergence of capacious, convenient and durable information storage, “film” is increasingly being replaced by a digital camera. There are several data storage formats:
1.JPEG – the most popular. A compression algorithm is used by removing color channels that the human eye cannot perceive. It is possible to save metadata (shutter speed, aperture size, camera model, etc.). Used in amateur photography;
2.TIFF - a lossless compression algorithm is used, as a result, photographs have a large file size. Used in printing;
3.RAW – no compression is used. A large amount of information about the file is saved. Used in professional photography.
1. Advantages of the RAW format
The RAW format is of greatest interest today. Due to the fact that only a snapshot of the data received from the photosensors is saved in the file, this file is small in size, makes it possible to influence the interpolation parameters, allows you to change the contrast, saturation, white balance, sharpness and exposure of the photo before the image is generated and, Therefore, in this way, loss in quality can be avoided. Therefore, such files are sometimes called digital "negatives".
Technology
Let's take a closer look at the process of obtaining photographs.
A photosensor, or photosensitive matrix, is a specialized integrated circuit that combines an ordered array of photosensitive elements and an electronic digitizing or scanning circuit. Converts an optical image into an electrical one and reads the electrical signal. When a certain amount of light hits each photosensitive element consisting of polysilicon, an internal photoelectric effect occurs. A positive voltage is applied to the electrodes and a potential well is formed, into which electrons from the valence band, having received a charge of energy from photons, rush. Electrons collect in this potential well. As a result, the intensity of the light flux during the exposure is expressed as the charge of each pixel. To obtain a color image, each matrix cell is covered with a red, green or blue filter. This is called a Bayer filter, shown in Fig. 1:
Picture 1
There are more green filters in this template due to the characteristics of human vision, which is more sensitive to the green part of the spectrum. So each matrix cell perceives only 1/3 of the visible spectrum. The remaining 2/3 is determined by the camera processor, depending on the color of neighboring cells. This process is called interpolation. If you want to obtain an image in RAW format, the interpolation process is skipped and the data from the matrix is written to a permanent recording device.
Software
To interpolate received photos in this format, special plugins are required. Different programs are used for cameras from different manufacturers:
Capture One DSLR
RAW converter from the Danish company PhaseOne. Recognized leader in the world of digital photography. A unique interpolation algorithm allows you to obtain amazing quality. Carefully designed interface and batch processing capabilities.
Adobe RAW plug-in
Plugin for Photoshop from Adobe. Included with Photoshop CS2. User-friendly interface and support for a large number of cameras from different manufacturers. Successfully copes with most tasks of processing RAW files.
Kodak Photo Desk
RAW converter from Kodak. Only supports cameras from this company. Developed interface, output of linear files. Available in Macintosh and Windows versions.
Nikon RAW converter. Only supports cameras from this company. Developed interface, noise suppression, convenient white balance adjustment. Does not support linear file output.
Canon File Viewer Utility
RAW converter from Canon. Only supports cameras from this company. Slightly confusing interface, batch processing, profile support. Available in Macintosh and Windows versions.
The printing program created by Mike Chaney supports interpolation of RAW files for some Nikon and Olympus cameras. Batch processing, profile support, convenient printing functions. Exists in a Windows-only version.
One of the best independent RAW converters for Nikon, Kodak and Olympus cameras. Display of changes, batch processing, profile support. Versions for Macintosh and Windows. Processes files an order of magnitude faster than Nikon Capture.
Program for viewing images. Supports working with RAW files based on Canon SDK. More friendly interface. Batch processing, restoration of light tones. Exists in a Windows-only version.
RawWorkflow.com
The site provides information about software products for converting and processing images in RAW formats and color management.
In Unix-like operating systems, the GIMP graphic editor is used to work with RAW using a special extension, for example:
RawPhoto GIMP-2.0 plug-in
2. Types of defects in digital photographs and ways to correct them
Due to the fact that the interpolation process is carried out under human control, it is possible to edit the resulting photograph, correcting incorrectly selected settings during the photographing process.
Using this format, you can use 8, 12, 16 bits for each cell that carries color, thereby increasing the number of shades that a pixel can have. Thus, the photograph, even at very high magnification, has a “smooth” image.
When photographing any texture, which is a raster close in size to the raster of the camera matrix, moire appears - the beating of the rasters forms zones of increased and decreased brightness, which merge into lines and textures that are not present on the subject. Shown in Fig.2.
Figure 2
The use of the Bayer pattern in a digital camera can also cause moire. To suppress this effect, there are various algorithms that are also used in software for processing RAW files.
In addition, an “anti-alias filter” is applied to the photosensitive matrix on top of the Bayer template. But all these methods have drawbacks: when using software to combat moire, some elements of the photograph are lost; Using an anti-alias filter causes a loss of sharpness.
It is also possible to edit an incorrectly defined color balance (white balance).
When shooting with a digital camera, digital noise can often be detected in the frames - a nonlinear image structure that appears in the form of small light, dark or colored dots. Most often it appears when the photosensitivity increases, or when shooting at long shutter speeds. Noise can be suppressed using special filters, which has side effects: decreased saturation, loss of shades. The amount of noise is suppressed during photo processing with a RAW converter.
a. Algorithm for correcting photos in RAW format
Having listed the main parameters that need to be edited in the process of obtaining the result, which is a finished photograph, you should create an algorithm for processing photographs in RAW format to ensure ease of use.
1. Adjust the color balance, if the converter supports it.
2. RAW file conversion (linear/non-linear): at this stage it is possible to use such RAW converters as Capture One DSLR, Bibble, Qimage Pro, YarcPlus, BreezeBrowser, Nikon Capture, Canon File Viewer Utility, Kodak Photo Desk And Adobe RAW Plug-in.
3. Conversion to the desired color space.
4. Removing digital “noise”: here it is possible to use such special plug-ins for Photoshop as Power Retouche Noise Corrector, NeatImage, Dfine, and others.
5. Removing moire. Performed in Photoshop.
6. Improving contrast: working with Levels And Curves in Photoshop.
7. Improving Saturation: Working with Crooked.
8. Selective color correction.
9. Retouch.
10. Correction of perspective distortions (when shooting with a wide-angle lens or fisheye): it is possible to use plug-ins for Photoshop such as ImageAlign, PanoTools and PowerRetouche Lens Corrector;
11. Sharpening: you can use the Unsharp Mask filter or specialized plugins: nik Sharpener, FocalBlade, PowerRetouche Sharpening, Smart X Sharpening.
3. Overview of various software tools for processing photos in RAW format
RAW converter from the Danish company PhaseOne. Recognized leader in the world of digital photography. A unique interpolation algorithm allows you to obtain amazing quality. Carefully designed interface and batch processing capabilities. (Fig.3)
This program contains tools for correcting color balance, exposure, focus, contrast and saturation.
There is also information here if a camera is connected to the computer, about the sensitivity of the matrix when shooting a given frame, the connection status and other information transmitted by the camera to the program.
“Raw” images taken directly from the digital camera sensor provide the photographer with maximum opportunities for processing and retouching photographic images. Such pictures in RAW format contain all the information without compression or loss. This means that you can get higher-quality artistic photographs from them - with optimal color rendition, well-developed details in highlights and shadows, and low digital noise. Therefore, today not only professionals, but also ordinary photography enthusiasts resort to tools for working with RAW.
In reality, each digital camera generates RAW files with its own file extension (CR2 or NEF, for example), and RAW is just a generic name for these raw images. For this reason, working with RAW requires special software that can recognize dozens of different formats from different camera models. Professional photographers who deal with large volumes of photographic images usually opt for commercial software products such as Adobe Lightroom or Capture One Pro, which have powerful functionality. However, it is hardly advisable for owners of simple amateur DSLRs to immediately buy a paid version of Lightroom, especially since such pleasure is not cheap. They can recommend several good free editors that will help them quickly correct “raw” RAW images.
A convenient and simple photo editor that supports all major mobile and desktop platforms (Android, iOS, Windows, Mac). It can work with RAW files, providing the user with almost all the functions necessary for processing “raw” images. First of all, this is basic editing with cropping photos, adjusting tone and color scheme, adjusting exposure for various scenes (night, day, with flash, etc.), changing brightness and contrast. Then there are the possibilities of applying a variety of effects (for example, lomo and vintage), as well as retouching portrait photographs, including eliminating wrinkles and minor defects, smoothing the skin, and whitening teeth. A separate topic in Fotor is creating interesting collages using prepared templates or in a free, creative mode. The editor recognizes almost all major RAW formats of digital cameras and has a simple and intuitive interface.
You can download the program for free from the Windows store (for Win) or from iTunes (for Mac).
However, for those who want to get a truly powerful and functional tool for processing RAW files, almost similar to the capabilities of Lightroom, you should turn your attention to the Raw Therapee program. It supports most RAW formats produced by various digital camera models. This is an editor with a very wide range of functions and filters, as well as a built-in photo manager that allows you to set a kind of image rating. A partial list of Raw Therapee's capabilities includes exposure correction, tone mapping, color channel adjustment, chromatic aberration compensation, and white balance adjustment. Batch processing of files is supported. Any changes to the settings are instantly displayed in the preview window, and it is always possible to roll back to the previous stage of image processing by saving the history of performed operations. The Raw Therapee editor will certainly appeal to those users who are creative in the process of processing photo images.
Nice and lightweight, UFRaw is based on the DCRaw plugin for the GIMP editor. Can run as a standalone application on Linux, Mac OS X or Windows. Supports a sufficient number of RAW formats from different camera models. When working with “raw” images, UFRaw allows you to adjust white balance, adjust exposure and color saturation, and eliminate lens defects (chromatic aberration and vignetting). Processed photos from RAW format can be easily converted to the more common TIFF, PPS or JPEG.
Among free utilities, Darktable can easily compete with the aforementioned Raw Therapee in its range of functionality and settings. The only drawback of the program is that it is “tailored” for Linux and MacOS; there are currently no versions for use in the familiar Windows operating system. But this editor really has a lot of possibilities, because the program has a modular architecture. That is, by connecting additional modules you can constantly expand the functionality of the application. Darktable offers the user full color control, white balance adjustment, editing and transforming photo images, eliminating digital noise and optical defects, applying various artistic effects, as well as storing and cataloging a home collection of photos (you can rate and add tags to photos). As with Raw Therapee, when processing RAW files, all changes are saved, which means you can return to the original image at any time.
Scarab Darkroom Converter with editing capabilities works with RAW formats supported by popular cameras from Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax, Samsung and Sony. Using a simple and intuitive interface, you can adjust the brightness and contrast of the photo, change the color temperature, and crop the photo at your discretion. Scarab Darkroom includes RGB histogram support, which opens up possibilities for professional color correction. The program converts the resulting photo images into two common formats - JPEG and TIFF. A good, free program for a beginning photographer.
Professional photographers are obsessed with the RAW format, and for good reason. Doesn’t it seem attractive to be able to put aside technical details “for later” and shoot for fun? If you decide to join the ranks of such photographers, but don’t know where and how to process the RAW format, this article is for you. Below you will learn about all the benefits of raw shooting and get valuable tips for working with RAW photographs.
Why shoot and process in RAW?
The RAW format stores all possible information about the photograph taken. Each pixel contains maximum data about the color of the captured object. There is no need to constantly adjust the white balance and exposure to a new location - all shortcomings can and should be corrected later, during post-processing.
This is interesting to know!
As soon as you click the shutter, the camera lens captures the light pulses reflected from the subject. Afterwards, they will instantly appear in the photomatrix. It will analyze the captured pulses and record data on the color of each pixel. This data makes up the RAW file (translated from English as “raw”, “unprocessed”). This is the captured image in its purest form. If you shoot in JPEG, the adventures of the “raw” files will continue in the built-in processor - the device will “adjust” the received information to the camera settings - and the photo will be ready.
Photos processed in RAW format look brighter and better quality
RAW images are most often dull, not particularly attractive, and at first glance they are significantly inferior to their JPEG versions. However, everything changes after the first setup. For clarity, let's compare using a specific example. On the right you see a photo processed in RAW, and on the left you see a photo to which the same settings were applied, only after conversion to JPEG.
The difference is obvious - working with RAW gave a noticeably better result. Colors appear natural and rich, and overall the photo looks more vibrant and professional. How successfully you will be able to develop a RAW photo depends on the selected processing program.
Which editor is more convenient to work with RAW?
RAW does not have a standard extension - each camera developer implements its own type. U Canon– these are.CR2 and.CRW, y Nikon– .NEF, y Samsung- .SRW, etc. Not every program recognizes these formats, and a fair question arises: where do professionals process RAW images?
The well-known old-timer of photo editors, Photoshop, is not the undisputed leader in this area. It weighs a lot, it has a lot of “unnecessary” functions, and an additional module is required to work with RAW. Many people advise turning to Lightroom, but this Adobe friend is not particularly pleased with the accessibility and conciseness of the settings.
An editor is a completely different matter. PhotoMASTER. Outwardly, it resembles its Western competitors, however, it is much easier to work with. It doesn’t matter at all what camera you shoot with - the software supports all modern models and “knows” all RAW extensions. Let's see its capabilities in action.
Instant improvement
The first thing you will see when you upload a RAW photo is a window with auto enhancement settings. The software will offer several profiles for instant processing - a general improvement in color balance, more contrasting and saturated colors for landscapes, natural shades for portraits.
PhotoMASTER offers several built-in profiles for quick RAW processing
By selecting one of the profiles, you will be taken to the main window where you can continue processing. In the Enhancements menu you will see a list of basic settings. Pay attention to the line "Auto-correction"– with the help of the “Color” and “Lighting” commands you can significantly.
Automatically improve color balance and lighting in photos
Detailed color customization
Now let's figure out how to process RAW photos manually. PhotoMASTER allows you to adjust the tone of the image in the smallest detail. If there is flare, you can easily eliminate them by moving the slider on the scale of the same name. Feel free to level up saturation, the picture will only benefit from this - the dynamic range of the RAW format will allow you to avoid unnatural posterization.
The RAW format allows you to maximize color saturation without losing quality
To lighten or, conversely, darken a photo without losing detail, use "Dark" And "Light". These parameters adjust individual areas of the image (light and dark, respectively), leaving the rest untouched. This selectivity guarantees a better result.
For more comprehensive lighting correction, adjust light and dark areas separately
PhotoMASTER gives you a unique opportunity to correct individual colors in a photo. To do this, go to the tab "Color", select the desired shade and adjust to your liking. You can turn red into pink or yellow, and blue into green or purple, just by moving the slider.
You can change the color in the photo by simply moving the slider on the scale
In the same tab you will find tools for manually adjusting the color balance of the image - the software allows you to separately adjust the light and dark shades of the primary colors of the spectrum - red, blue and green. Additionally, you can make specific colors more/less saturated, as well as lighten or darken them, which is ideal for editing portraits. This will allow you to add a bright color accent to the photo, without the skin taking on an unnatural orange tint.
Increase the saturation of individual colors to create an accent
Everything for a perfect result
These are only those tools that are designed to “manifest” RAW. PhotoMASTER amazes with the range of possibilities and number of tools for full photo editing. Go to section "Composition" and use the “Crop” option to . If necessary, correct a blocked horizon and distortion in a couple of mouse clicks.
PhotoMASTER offers several presets for instantly cropping photos
In chapter "Retouch" You will find convenient tools for high-quality removal of defects in portraits, removing unnecessary objects from the frame, as well as options for detailed correction of individual areas of the image.
In the editor you can easily bring portrait shots to perfection
PhotoMASTER provides complete freedom for artistic transformation of photos - tint the photo, add an accent using a radial filter, create a film grain effect, or apply a filter from the collection.
PhotoMASTER includes dozens of ready-made filters that you can apply in one click
Instead of racking your brains over how best to process the RAW file format, PhotoMASTER and start improving your pictures now!
If your camera allows you to take photos in RAW format, and almost all modern cameras allow you to do this, it would be a sin not to take advantage of such opportunities. In macro photography, processing RAW photos can significantly improve the result. Processing allows you to remove highlights, increase the saturation of the picture, increase sharpness, even out colors and much more. Read the basics of processing RAW photos in this article.
Before I get straight to the point and talk about working with the converter Adobe Camera Raw, I would like to make a short introduction and explain exactly what purpose I am pursuing in creating this article and who it is aimed at.
First of all, I want to note that I have no goal of telling absolutely everything I know about working with this converter (hereinafter referred to as ACR). This would require too much time and effort. Besides, although I know a lot, I obviously don’t know everything. And there are enough sources to get detailed and guaranteed correct information about working with this program, even without me. For example, a very good textbook “Adobe Photoshop CS3 for Photographers” who wrote Martin Evening.
My goal is to give the most necessary basics and reveal how to work with the most popular (from my point of view) ACR tools, so that any beginner who has not yet decided to shoot in RAW and work with it, after reading this article, understands that this is the case, in fact, quite simple, and most importantly – extremely convenient and useful.
RAW- (from English – “raw”) data format containing raw information and allowing to avoid its loss. Such files contain complete information about the stored signal. In digital photography, the RAW format refers to data obtained directly from the camera sensor without processing. .
Almost any modern digital camera has the ability to shoot (or rather, record the received information) in JPG and RAW format. The main difference between these two formats is that JPG is the result of processing the received data by the camera itself and, as a result, a compressed image with a lot of lost information, while RAW is all the information that was received on the camera matrix during the shooting process. Usually, smart Modern cameras cope with information processing quite well and produce quite acceptable results in JPG form, but still, with rare exceptions, they cannot do it better than us, much smarter people. :) So, I’ll paraphrase Michurin’s famous phrase: “Let’s not wait for mercy from digital technology, our goal is to take it ourselves!”
So let's get started...
- Workflow Options- First, you need to decide on Workflow Options (by clicking on the line marked in red under the photo). You must select in which color space ( Space) we will work (if the photo will be printed, then select Adobe RGB 1998, if you need the file exclusively for web applications, then sRGB is quite enough), and also select the depth ( Depth), size ( Size) and resolution ( Resolution) of our future file. I would like to note that converting in a wider space, with great depth, maximum sizes and resolution, of course, is best for the quality of the final result, but we should not forget that all this will ultimately give us a file of quite impressive size (50-70 MB in average), and the space on the hard drive is not rubber. So let's be reasonable and try to match our needs with necessity.
- Conversion data management- On the right side of the control panel in the line next to the inscription Basic There is a rather inconspicuous button, and yet very convenient and necessary functions are hidden behind it. With their help, we can save the data of any conversion and then apply it to any other equalizer with one click. By default, all conversion data is saved in a small file format .xmp, which is automatically saved to the folder where the converted equalizer is located. If this does not happen (you could, for example, cancel this function), then the data can be saved by clicking on Save Settings... In the future, if you want to apply the saved data to any other equalizer, just download the corresponding .xmp file via function Load Setting...
ACR also makes it possible to convert and make changes to a large number of ravs simultaneously, but I will talk about this a little later.
- White Balance Tool- Before we move on to the next part, I would like to draw your attention to one more point - the tool for changing the white balance. This is an eyedropper that works on the same principle as the gray eyedropper in Curves in Photoshop (more on this topic in "The simple wonders of color correction")
Though White Balance Tool and convenient, but still the main tool for changing the white balance, as well as many other extremely useful ones, is located elsewhere. To do this, let's go again to the right, main part of the toolbars Basic:
- White Balance- In this pop-up window you can select several standard automatic white balance settings, which are also available on any camera. It should be borne in mind that, despite the “standard”, they can vary quite significantly from camera to camera and from program to program and, most importantly, do not always correspond to the true state of things, that is, these settings are highly averaged and approximate.
You can always try clicking on the option Auto, it is not so rare that it produces quite acceptable results. Well, if none of the proposed options suits you, then you have at your disposal tools for manually setting white balance - Temperature And Tint. Well, again, don’t forget about the White Balance Tool dropper! - Exposure- One of the most important converter tools. With its help, you can make significant exposure correction to the existing frame. For example, my portrait of an owl is quite noticeably underexposed (dark), which is easily corrected by moving the plus lever. If the frame is overexposed (overexposed), this can be corrected by moving the lever to minus. Track changes in the photo preview - overexposed fragments will be filled in red, which is very convenient and visual.
- Recovery- My owl has white plumage, and the white color fades very easily into overexposure. So, having adjusted the exposure to plus, I got obvious overexposure in some places on the feathers. To fix this, let's use a truly wonderful tool. Recovery. It allows you to expand the dynamic range of a photograph even in the process of elementary conversion, removing overexposure in the necessary places, (almost) without affecting the rest of the frame.
- Fill light- A second tool that helps expand the dynamic range. With its help, if necessary, you can lighten excessively dark areas in the shadows, (almost) without affecting the rest of the photo. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that with the tools Fill light And Recovery You should handle them carefully and not lose a sense of proportion, since overdoing them can easily result in ugly, flat and noisy photographs. When used correctly and in moderation, these tools have no price!
- Clarity- Another wonderful tool with which you can increase the tonal contrast of an image (increase micro-contrast and get more detail) or, conversely, reduce it, getting something like a “soft focus” effect. But be careful! Excessive use can have a detrimental effect on the image - noise and artifacts will appear, especially noticeable in out-of-focus areas, or details will easily disappear in the least contrasting areas of the image.
Now let's move on to the next one page - Tone Curve.
Everything related to contrast (and indirectly color) can be refined here by working directly with the histogram graph and individual zones of light, shadows and midtones. The principle of operation is the same as in Curves of Photoshop itself, but also more simplified.
If you work with the second bookmark Point, then we get the same graph in which we can work on any arbitrary points, as in Photoshop.
And here it is in the bookmark Paramtric The data is changed by changing the values at four points (lights in two values and shadows also in two values). Not good for people feeling Photoshop Curves, bookmark Parametric should be much more obvious and intuitive.
In earlier versions of the ACR function Point, unfortunately, it was quite buggy and it was almost impossible to use it (maybe it was just me, I don’t know). So, after getting a little angry and spitting, I got used to using the functions Parametric. In the latest version I have, the points finally work, but I’m already so used to working with the parameters that automatically I first go to this tab, make changes... and then I scroll to the second one and finalize the points on the graph. To be honest, I don’t know how much sense this makes, but I’m already used to working this way. :)
Let's move on to the next one page - Detail. Here we will work on image sharpness and fight noise.
NB! As the text under the tools rightly states, before you start making any changes in this window, increase the preview size to 100% or higher, only this way you can reliably track the changes being made.
Tool Noise Reduction consists of two parts - Luminance And Color. In the first, you work with suppression of brightness noise, and in the second, color noise. If this is necessary, in the column Color The slider can be safely moved almost to the maximum value, there will be no harm from this. WITH Luminance You need to be careful - the higher the value, the more the overall sharpness of the image will drop. However, this can be somewhat corrected.
Sharpening- Using this tool you can significantly increase the sharpness of the image. It operates on approximately the same principle as the most popular tool of this series in Photoshop - Unsharp Mask.
Personally, I can say that I use this tool in the converter very sparingly and most often only in cases where I first had to work with noise reduction.
Now let's go to HSL/Grayscale- the most important part of color correction in the converter.
Here you can quite flexibly and quickly convert the image to black and white; to do this, just check the box next to the inscription Convert to Grayscale. We are now working with color, so we leave this area untouched and move on to the tabs of the HSL tool - an interesting and, in my opinion, quite successful mixture of Photoshop Hue/Saturation, Selective Color And Channel Mixer.
Hue- Working with different color channels, here you can select shades of any of the colors presented. For example, I didn’t want the red in the photo to look pink, and I wanted to make the yellow a little warmer - so I moved the corresponding levers.
Saturation- By the same principle as in the previous part, here you can work with the saturation of various colors without affecting any others.
Luminance- The same tool allows you to change the brightness of colors by channel from darker to lighter, or vice versa.
All these tools are very visual and intuitive. But, as with most other converter tools, the main thing here is not to lose a sense of proportion.
So, our image is almost ready, the final touches remain - correcting the shortcomings of the picks, which can be done in the section Lens Corrections.
Chromatic Aberration, or chromatic aberration- unsightly colored contours, spots and stripes that appear as a result of the fact that the lens cannot always correctly bring all three components of light (red, green and blue) to one point on the plane that records the image. As a rule, chromatic aberrations appear in places with the greatest contrasts (for example, along the contour of a dark object against a light background).
It is these unpleasant phenomena that can be combated with the help of a tool Chromatic Aberration. Enlarge the image to 100% or higher and, moving the sliders back and forth, track changes in problem areas of the image until you arrive at the optimal result.
Lens Vignetting, or lens vignetting, which means the image darkens around the edges of the frame.
This tool allows you to fight these shadows or, on the contrary, create them. It should be noted that the problem of vignetting in working with modern optics is becoming less and less common, so this tool is often used not to reduce, but to increase the vignetting rate. This artistic technique allows you to darken empty or unimportant parts of the frame, draw more attention to the center, emphasize the main object and convey a certain atmosphere of the plot.
.xmp ) for future use. Every time you open this already converted raw material, these parameters will automatically be applied to it. These parameters can also be applied to any other equalizer, as described above in the “Managing conversion data” section.
When you press Open Image all conversion parameters are also automatically saved to an .xmp file.
And in conclusion, I want to tell you that all of the above can be applied to both one file and the whole package. To do this, just select the required number of ravs - and all of them will open in ACR simultaneously in a separate window on the left.
After clicking Select All(or selecting several selected files from the list) and then clicking Synchronize A new control window will open, in which you can mark which parameters you would like the conversion to apply synchronously to all selected files.
Then through Open image(s) or Done You can still open the converted ravs in Photoshop or save the conversion parameters for each of them.
If your camera supports the RAW photo format and you want to know why it is better than standard jpeg, then this article is written for you.
The main feature of the RAW format is that it records much more information about the image than jpeg. And complete information allows you to refine the photo, change the exposure, darken overexposures and brighten dark areas. And turn even the most ordinary photo into a masterpiece.
There are mainly two programs used for processing RAW format: Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Lightroom. Newer versions of Photoshop now have a built-in Camera Raw application for processing RAW formats. the most powerful program specifically designed for sorting and processing entire albums of RAW photos.
In general, the editing window is almost the same. At the end of the article in video lesson you can see how to process photos in RAW format using Adobe Photoshop.
Drag our RAW image into the Adobe Photoshop window. The Camera Raw add-on launches.
At the top of the window there are buttons such as: scaling, dragging, cropping. An adjustment brush allows you to make corrections in certain areas of the photo.
The main adjustments window is displayed on the right. Here you can adjust the exposure, temperature, color, and also lighten or darken various tones of the photo. It is this panel that brings the photo to life. Correctly selected settings allow you to “see” details that are lost in a regular photograph taken in JPEG format.
At the top there is a histogram of the image, and below it there is additional information about the image.
The next window is called "Tone Curve".
The next tab, “Details,” allows you to get rid of digital noise in your photo.
The next tab allows you to set the color tone of the shadows and highlights of the photo.
The post-crop vignetting effect lets you darken or lighten the edges of a photo to bring more attention to the center.
Let's click on the Y button under the photo and see what it was like and what it became. If you are satisfied with the result, click save or open it in Photoshop for further refinement.
The finished result looks like this:
In the next video lesson you will see how to process RAW photos in Adobe Photoshop:
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Processing RAW photos in Lightroom 6
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